Josh, Etai and I ended up soloing the entire route and summitted well before noon from camp just below the glacier. Crossing the moat was a little dicey. Went on to climb Storm King that same afternoon.
A hard 15h05 car-to-car in a mixture of rain and clouds. I got lost on the way down and ended up coming out Park Creek, but that only added a few miles. Mostly class 3-4 as Beckey says, and because it has so many sharp edges, the rock isn't that much harder to climb when wet. Finding the way down the south side with 100 yards or less of visibility was not fun. Trip report.
We attempted Storm King the day before but we were stormed off and we even got hailed on. Seriously. The "black stairs" in the couloir are an interesting formation. We brought double 60 meter ropes for long raps. The ropes got stuck on the first rappel and Greg had to climb back up to fix it.
Climbed the NE Buttress during a week of rainy weather with Sierra Mountaineering Group. This route has it all; thousands of feet of rock, a long approach, glaciers, and amazing scenery.
Done during the hottest weekend of the year. Put off doing it for years because stories of the approach scared me. Glad I don't have to do it again.
A fairly straight-forward scramble to the summit. Easy to get Storm King the same day.