Grain Surgery Wall Climber's Log

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fatdad - Apr 11, 2016 3:39 pm

Grain Surgery, Decompensator, Deflowered  Sucess!

Deflowered was my first lead at Josh. Only 14 yrs. old, skimpy rack and a pair of Adidas basketball shoes. Had to work for it, but good times. Decompensator of Llasa by both different starts. Good beta from Dow on Grain Surgery, though I believe that most people find the run to the top to be at least the mental crux of the route and where most people will get shut down.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2016

Grain Surgery  Sucess!

I felt this was a sandbagged 5.10b by Jtree standards but a worthy lead for sure. Start up the obvious middle crack on the face. Good jams and gear get you up to where it starts to flare and peter out. You have to make a transition from the main crack to a shallow one up and left. There is a bolt between the two (Miramontes guide shows it to the left of the short crack, but it is in between and it is a spinner as of 2016). After clipping the bolt, the route gets cruxy for quite a way. Keeping your fingers low (left crack peters out quick), lay back off of a bump with your right foot and extend up and stick your left foot in the shallow, flaring, insecure crack. Quickly bounce up to the positive horizontal (bomber C4#.5). Traverse left and do a high step up to get your feet up to the horizontal (no hands). Clip a rusted (2016) bolt. Don’t get sucked up and right to the finger pod. Instead focus on trending up and left on slight vertical slab features with little to know finger edges. It is all in the legs up to the rap. The rusty bolt can wear on you, but the #.5 below is bomber. The rap is on the left top corner of the feature and is rigged to get you back down to the belay at an angle. (I think I was stoned when I first wrote this down!)


atthecrux - Apr 23, 2013 1:36 am Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2005

Deflowered  Sucess!

An interesting route with a wide finish. I'd climb it again!

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