Very looooooooooong and not eterogeneous route. No more in my life!!!!!!
Very long route. First day from valnontey 6-7, hours to Biv Pol. Never seen anyone else(only two of us). Second day started 4am across glacier to coll dell ape. While climbing up il roc to traverse into gully I fell off on very loose rock, snow and scree slope and was narrowly missed by a falling cornice (luckily the rope held when I fell ). Decided as a thunderstorm was approaching to retreat to hut. Spent another night in bivi with no food during massive storm, but was glad to be safe.
Decended to valnontey the next day which was very tiring (1500m decent with heavy packs)
If your going to do this route be very carefull of the traverse into the gully at il roc, we couldn't see a safe route.
Going back 2005 to the normal route on skis!.
Best conditons I have ever had on an 4000m peak!!
Nice 6 hour climb, then skied back to refuge.
Very nice long hot approach.
The so-called normal is not so normal! Now it is better to avoid "Schiena d'Asino" glacier and walk alongside left border of the valley.
Very hard ice! 6 hrs from Vittorio Emanuele hut to the top ...
*ALL* pages on this mountain are to be re-written!
Together with my brother. Very nice, sunny, but cold weather. Lucky enough we were one of the first groups at the top, because it can get crowded. Returned also by the Chabod hut, much more convenient, glacier and path, then along the other hut (Vit.Em.).
depuis ref. Vittorio Emanuele II
Very beautiful wall and nice climb.
My first 4000-er, it was a long trip, but at the end it was it all worth. We had good weather and a great view at the summit.
tyred but happy
Easy long way
Normal Route (1968) - E Wall from Leonessa Bivouac (1970)
Easy and beautiful
Very nice day, a lot of people at the top
Easy climb and good weather in both years.
A perfect day with good weather and fascinating views. We were a group of three, using snowshoes.
Our first 4000. With my wife and 13 years old son we started at 6 am from a tent just above the hut. Reached the summit at 13.30 in excellent weather. We were the last team this day, alone at the top.
Nice weather and snow conditions.