Grand Teton Climber's Log

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Jesus Malverde

Jesus Malverde - Sep 29, 2010 11:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2010

Owen Spaulding Route  Sucess!

VERY cool climb on fun and historic alpine rock. The joke was on me: I was looking at the "graffiti" on the summit (and silently cursing the inconsiderate climbers), then I realized it was the work of the first ascenders :). Special shout out to the boys at Teton Gravity Research and Phillip at JHMG. Thank you!


alpinedon - Sep 24, 2010 5:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

First Grand Summit  Sucess!

Went with Harold Hall and his brother Ron. Spent two nights and three days at the Upper saddle. Summited on August fifth, going by way of the Wittich Crack variation. A hard slog, but well worth it. My very favorite climbing trip!


Paul86 - Sep 14, 2010 12:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010

Took a fall

Right at the base of the black dike trying to start the exum. A looong way to hike to be followed by an epic descent in the dark. Thank god for having a competent partner to help me down!


MichaelRogers - Sep 7, 2010 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2010

Owen-Spaulding  Sucess!

Seventh time on the Grand, single day ascents still as hard as I remembered.
OS is great fun, Direct Exum is particularly beautiful and magnificent climbing.


GrumpyJohn - Aug 30, 2010 10:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

First time up  Sucess!

Climbed with Pat Ormond of Exum via the Direct Exum.


GrumpyJohn - Aug 30, 2010 9:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2010

Solo  Sucess!

Soloed the OS with no problems other than cold fingers and toes.


blueshade - Aug 19, 2010 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010

Grand Teton - Owen-Spalding  Sucess!

Completely missed passing through the Meadows in the dark but was a nice surprise when we reached the Moraine. Chimneys had some ice from a recent storm but not a problem. Belly Crawl wasn't bad at all. Nice scrambling above the Upper Saddle and great views on top.


heather14 - Aug 8, 2010 8:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Camped in the Moraine. Wind was blowing pretty hard, felt like I was in a trash bag, got less than an hour of sleep. Climbed the Upper Exum in stellar conditions. Great views all around.


SKI - Jul 20, 2010 8:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010

Hit and miss  Sucess!

Tried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day.


seano - Jul 12, 2010 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.

Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.

montyq2 - Jul 10, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!


jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 12:57 am

Finally Made It

First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.


mongoose762 - Jul 4, 2010 7:06 pm

Owen Spaulding Route  Sucess!

Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.


jdw10 - Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008

Grand Teton  Sucess!

Successful Summit with Exum Guides

Vertigo soul

Vertigo soul - Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner/Chevy/Ford  Sucess!

Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!


gcap - Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.


merrill - May 31, 2010 10:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004

Upper Exum  Sucess!

First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.


merrill - May 31, 2010 10:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

Owen-Spaulding  Sucess!

Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.


moneal - Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010

Full Exum  Sucess!

Lower Exum is all that.


reboyles - Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973

Smith-Otter Body  Sucess!

Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.

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