SKI - Jul 20, 2010 8:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
Hit and miss
Tried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day.
Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.
Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.
Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!
First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.
Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.
jdw10 - Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008
Grand Teton
Successful Summit with Exum Guides
07/05/08
Vertigo soul - Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
Stettner/Chevy/Ford
Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!
gcap - Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
Stettner Couloir
Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.
merrill - May 31, 2010 10:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004
Upper Exum
First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.
merrill - May 31, 2010 10:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009
Owen-Spaulding
Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
reboyles - Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973
Smith-Otter Body
Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.
builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
Two Climbs, One Month
August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.
August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.
Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.
biz - Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010
Upper Exum
Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.
bryangast - Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993
Close call
Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.
bird - Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
Super fun on Upper Exum
Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!
Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
Direct Exum
Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...
Brian Kalet - Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009
OS
12.5h CTC
b. - Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Black Ice Couloir
Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.
SKI - Jul 20, 2010 8:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
Hit and missTried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day.
seano - Jul 12, 2010 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010
Upper ExumSoloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.
Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.
montyq2 - Jul 10, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010
Upper ExumCar to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!
jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 12:57 am
Finally Made ItFirst trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.
mongoose762 - Jul 4, 2010 7:06 pm
Owen Spaulding RouteLike many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.
jdw10 - Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008
Grand TetonSuccessful Summit with Exum Guides
07/05/08
Vertigo soul - Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
Stettner/Chevy/FordFull winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!
gcap - Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
Stettner CouloirClimbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.
merrill - May 31, 2010 10:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004
Upper ExumFirst time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.
merrill - May 31, 2010 10:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009
Owen-SpauldingLead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
moneal - Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010
Full ExumLower Exum is all that.
reboyles - Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973
Smith-Otter BodyHaving never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.
builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
Two Climbs, One MonthAugust 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.
August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.
merrill - May 31, 2010 10:36 pm
Re: Two Climbs, One MonthSounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.
biz - Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010
Upper ExumCamped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.
bryangast - Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993
Close callOwen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.
bird - Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
Super fun on Upper ExumGreat fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!
Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
Direct ExumFantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...
Brian Kalet - Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009
OS12.5h CTC
b. - Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Black Ice CouloirValhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.