VERY cool climb on fun and historic alpine rock. The joke was on me: I was looking at the "graffiti" on the summit (and silently cursing the inconsiderate climbers), then I realized it was the work of the first ascenders :). Special shout out to the boys at Teton Gravity Research and Phillip at JHMG. Thank you!
Went with Harold Hall and his brother Ron. Spent two nights and three days at the Upper saddle. Summited on August fifth, going by way of the Wittich Crack variation. A hard slog, but well worth it. My very favorite climbing trip!
Right at the base of the black dike trying to start the exum. A looong way to hike to be followed by an epic descent in the dark. Thank god for having a competent partner to help me down!
Seventh time on the Grand, single day ascents still as hard as I remembered.
OS is great fun, Direct Exum is particularly beautiful and magnificent climbing.
Climbed with Pat Ormond of Exum via the Direct Exum.
Soloed the OS with no problems other than cold fingers and toes.
Completely missed passing through the Meadows in the dark but was a nice surprise when we reached the Moraine. Chimneys had some ice from a recent storm but not a problem. Belly Crawl wasn't bad at all. Nice scrambling above the Upper Saddle and great views on top.
Camped in the Moraine. Wind was blowing pretty hard, felt like I was in a trash bag, got less than an hour of sleep. Climbed the Upper Exum in stellar conditions. Great views all around.
Tried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day.
Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.
Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.
Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!
First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.
Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.
Successful Summit with Exum Guides
Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!
Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.
First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.
Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
Lower Exum is all that.
Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.