Grand Teton Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 332

brendon - Aug 27, 2004 2:55 am

Route Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: 14 August 1998  Sucess!

Summited near the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the OS. Great day.


thegoldengriff - Aug 25, 2004 8:34 pm

Route Climbed: Wittich Crack (5.6) OS variation Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

Third time's a charm! Horrible weather in 2002-- during the same storm that caused deaths on the mountain. Perfect weather in 2003 though. Couldn't ask for a better trip. Left the parking lot at 2:30 AM, back in Jackson by 8:00 that night for pizza! Incredible.

spud-climber - Aug 19, 2004 12:17 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2002  Sucess!

Spent the first two days fighting poor weather (snow). We camped on the Lower Saddle, don't know if I'd do that again (windy and a long ways to pack your stuff). Make sure you can find Wall Street and other key features so that you can get on the rock know where your going. Do your homework.

Derek Franzen

Derek Franzen - Aug 15, 2004 9:45 am

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: August 12/13 1981  Sucess!

With E Sandbo, L Rasmussen & M Woodmansee. Hiked in from Jenny Lake to camp in upper basin. Up before light and hiked to start of climb. Chimney was great fun. Partner Mike provided short, yellow-rain squall at belay stance before crux pitch. Rope drag after the crux pitch was significant. Third classing upper part of route, legs wanted to go faster but lungs kept running out of air. Found 1/2 bottle of whiskey and note at summit. Descent uneventful. Glissaded from col, past Ohio Mountaineers ice climbing, steep snow to basin camp. Hiking out met lovely, friendly, topless girls hiking in.


b. - Jul 15, 2004 12:35 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

What a great route! Good rock, fun snow and lots of climbing. My fourth time on the summit of the Grand, my fourth route to the summit, and they were all spectacular. Now if only the North Ridge would cooperate . . .


gato - Jul 12, 2004 11:58 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

What a route! Some seriously exposed climbing on one of the most complex routes of the Grand. Very alpine, with lots of snow and ice everywhere. Bivied at the moraine of the Teton Glacier, had to traverse quite a bit to get back to our gear. Descended the Teepee Glacier, got see some sweet aspects of the Grand.

Another fantastic Tetons trip!

Robert Lutz - Jun 2, 2004 11:40 pm

Route Climbed: hard one for me Date Climbed: july, 2003  Sucess!

amazing. absolutley amazing.


Bootboy - May 29, 2004 2:41 am

Route Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Nice day, good weather until second rap. That got a bit tense. Exum is a cakewalk, awsome mountain though. Coming back for north ridge


t511a - Apr 28, 2004 10:49 pm

Route Climbed: Exum Ridge Date Climbed: 1Sep2001  Sucess!

storm had just moved thru the night before, left heavy winds for us to climb in. made it a little dodgy. nevertheless, had a great climb. one of the most stunning ranges i've seen.

bteddy - Apr 19, 2004 11:50 pm

Route Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: july '01  Sucess!

nice day good climb. definitly want something more technical like Petzoldt though


jstanley - Apr 19, 2004 9:46 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 7 Aug 1970  Sucess!

Khalden Sherpa and I climbed this route in perfect weather. We got off route, as many do, and didn't reach the summit til 6 PM. We descended the Owen Spaulding route and walked down the mountain until it became too dark to go any farther. We bivied and hiked back over the ridge to our campsite the next morning.


gunnersmith - Apr 18, 2004 8:57 pm

Route Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: August 14, 2002  Sucess!

I live this mountain. I love Jackson. I want to go back for the traverse.


Chris - Mar 23, 2004 10:09 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 1994  Sucess!

This is an awesome climb! Great views, great rock, super scenic approach... it just doesn't get much better.

t_dub - Nov 6, 2003 9:16 pm

Route Climbed: owen-spalding w/ wittich crack variation Date Climbed: aug '97  Sucess!

Is this not just a beaut of a rock? The view is amazing. Make sure to check out the Black Tail Butte directly east accross the valley. It is supprisingly some great climbing with no approach at all. Just roll out of your tent at GrosVentre and cruise to the parking lot and climb. Can't wait to go back. See you in Moose.

Nyle Walton

Nyle Walton - Nov 6, 2003 10:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 1950

Route Climbed: Owens-Spaulding Date Climbed: July, 1950  Sucess!

Midway through the 20th Century on a summer trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, I gazed upon the awesome Grand Teton for the first time. At its base near Jenny Lake, I met mountain-guide Glenn Exum and his attractive blond wife. Exum's appearance was a cross between the movie actors, Errol Flynn and Gilbert Roland, the latter whom I had just seen in a class-B movie entitled "High Conquest" where the Cisco Kid played a Swiss guide somewhat reluctant to undertake a death-defying climb of the Matterhorn. The prospect of reliving this movie inspired me to borrow thirty dollars from my father to pay Exum to guide me up the "Matterhorn of the Rockies."
I was disappointed when my guide turned out to be not the handsome Exum but rather a younger member of his staff, Bob Merriam. Bob led his wife, Doris, Ronald Davis, and me up along switchbacks that led through the forest and up a glacial ravine to the 12,000-foot saddle between the Grand and Middle Tetons. There we camped for the night before ascending steeply to a higher saddle where we roped up and traversed horizontally along a narrow exposed ledge called the "Cooning Place" (as I recall). A few more terrifying pitches subsequently put us on the slabby summit of the Grand Teton.
The weather was good and we could see every peak from Mount Moran and Jackson Lake on the north to South Teton and Jackson town to the south. Bob and his wife sat on a ledge below the summit. I was able to catch them from above through my viewfinder with their legs dangling over the abyss and Jenny Lake 7,000 feet below their feet for a very vertiginous photograph. A kodachrome of sixteen-year-old me sitting on the summit appears in my profile.

This was my first experience with technical climbing. Subsequently that same year (1950) I wrote an account of the climb that covered a newspaper-size page in the Salt Lake Tribune Sunday Magazine Section entitled "Feet on the Teton." A photograph of our guide and his wife taken from the summit looks down on their boots suspended above Jenny Lake is one of five pictures that appeared with the full-page article. The yellowed newspaper sheet remains folded among my most precious momentos.

Scott Wesemann

Scott Wesemann - Jan 14, 2008 12:02 am

Here is your log


Here is a picture of your actual summit signature. I'm not sure if you have seen this, but I thought it was pretty awesome.


mrrich - Sep 14, 2003 11:23 pm

Route Climbed: Owen Spalding (sort of) Date Climbed: 12 Aug 2003  Sucess!

I'm not sure why I let my little Brother talk me into leaving the tent at 4:30am.. We ended up climbing to the top in the dark.. Since we had not been their before,,, we left the Owen Spalding route before the belly crawl and ended up with a direct ascent.. All in all,, it was great.. We sat up on top and watched the sun come up.. warmed up in the sun for about an hour,,, We didn't see the next climber until we were on our way back down..


grandwazoo - Aug 25, 2003 5:30 pm

Route Climbed: OS Date Climbed: August 22, 2003  Sucess!

Had bad weather from the lower saddle to the peak, with only a few brief shots of the sun. Near zero visibility with some slight rain.


b. - Aug 21, 2003 2:07 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: August 2, 2003  Sucess!

My third summit of the Grand, first by Owen-Spalding, second by Direct Exum, and this, my first time crossing the Wall Street gap. The route was more memorable this time around, with my wife. 3.5 hours from the Lower Saddle, and we jumped every group of guides we encountered. My first pleasant experience with the guides in the Tetons. All were happy on the summit.


miztflip - Aug 12, 2003 7:06 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2003  Sucess!

Fun climb to a great summit. The Golden Staircase was the best climbing on the route. I didn't even know I was on the Friction Pitch until it was over. Simul-climbed with my wife and found the ridge to be shorter and easier than expected. Mostly 4th and very low 5th class climbing.

Passed 5 Exum guided groups as the ridge was wide and hosted many variations.

A true Classic.

Viewing: 1-20 of 332
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