Grand Teton Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 338

wtrBaltimoreMD - Mar 5, 2005 6:22 pm

Route Climbed: Owen Spalding Date Climbed: July, 2000  Sucess!

Nice climb. Great lightning storms at night. View was fantastic.

GlennMerrill

GlennMerrill - Feb 27, 2005 7:40 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!

First time doing the Grand. Hope to get back this year (2005). Took the guide book and soloed it.

JanG

JanG - Nov 16, 2004 11:26 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: June 27, 2004  Sucess!

Grand Teton has been called by some " America's Matterhorn." I went to Jackson with my 22 y/o son Christoph to get some rock-climbing experience prior to climbing the " real " Matterhorn. We certainly got some great experiences with the Grand!



Exum Mountain Guides assigned us to Doug Coombs, a famous extreme skier, during our 3-day stay. We practiced rock climbing on different pitches (on all kinds of rock walls) during our first day with Doug. On day 2 we hiked from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle. There was still snow on the ground; indeed, Doug had skied from the top of Grand Teton one week previously. There was just a handful of climbers at the camp. The sky was clear when we arrived but it got quite cold during the night.



We left at 4:35AM for the final climb. The rock surface was dry and there was no ice cover at any point on the ridge. The crossing of the void at " Wall Street " was somewhat nerve-racking while the " Golden Staircase " was the perfect climbing pitch for me. We were able to complete the rest of the ridge climb without major difficulties. Doug was an outstanding guide; he gave us the needed support at critical points of the climb.



We enjoyed the fantastic panorama after reaching the summit at 9:45. The descent was via the Owens-Spalding route; we were back at the Lower Saddle at 1PM just before afternoon showers began. To summarize, Grand Teton is a fantastic place to get great rock-climbing experiences and the Exum guides are the best. Christoph and myself were both able to put into practice at the Matterhorn (less than 6 weeks later) all that we had learned at the Grand.

MikeB

MikeB - Nov 12, 2004 5:28 pm

Route Climbed: Lower Exum/Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July, 2004

Short of the summit by 300' due to some route finding issues. Missed the entrance ramp to the Exum ridge and traversed from Petzold ridge to Lower Exum.

poorboy44

poorboy44 - Nov 2, 2004 5:51 pm

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Fun route, great view!

chiligod - Sep 29, 2004 8:38 pm

Route Climbed: exum ridge Date Climbed: july 97  Sucess!

my first climb. it occured to me as a good first for anyone entering the sport. needed more lungs at the time.

brendon

brendon - Aug 27, 2004 2:55 am

Route Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: 14 August 1998  Sucess!

Summited near the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the OS. Great day.

thegoldengriff

thegoldengriff - Aug 25, 2004 8:34 pm

Route Climbed: Wittich Crack (5.6) OS variation Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

Third time's a charm! Horrible weather in 2002-- during the same storm that caused deaths on the mountain. Perfect weather in 2003 though. Couldn't ask for a better trip. Left the parking lot at 2:30 AM, back in Jackson by 8:00 that night for pizza! Incredible.

spud-climber - Aug 19, 2004 12:17 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2002  Sucess!

Spent the first two days fighting poor weather (snow). We camped on the Lower Saddle, don't know if I'd do that again (windy and a long ways to pack your stuff). Make sure you can find Wall Street and other key features so that you can get on the rock know where your going. Do your homework.

Derek Franzen

Derek Franzen - Aug 15, 2004 9:45 am

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: August 12/13 1981  Sucess!

With E Sandbo, L Rasmussen & M Woodmansee. Hiked in from Jenny Lake to camp in upper basin. Up before light and hiked to start of climb. Chimney was great fun. Partner Mike provided short, yellow-rain squall at belay stance before crux pitch. Rope drag after the crux pitch was significant. Third classing upper part of route, legs wanted to go faster but lungs kept running out of air. Found 1/2 bottle of whiskey and note at summit. Descent uneventful. Glissaded from col, past Ohio Mountaineers ice climbing, steep snow to basin camp. Hiking out met lovely, friendly, topless girls hiking in.

b.

b. - Jul 15, 2004 12:35 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

What a great route! Good rock, fun snow and lots of climbing. My fourth time on the summit of the Grand, my fourth route to the summit, and they were all spectacular. Now if only the North Ridge would cooperate . . .

gato

gato - Jul 12, 2004 11:58 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

What a route! Some seriously exposed climbing on one of the most complex routes of the Grand. Very alpine, with lots of snow and ice everywhere. Bivied at the moraine of the Teton Glacier, had to traverse quite a bit to get back to our gear. Descended the Teepee Glacier, got see some sweet aspects of the Grand.



Another fantastic Tetons trip!

Robert Lutz - Jun 2, 2004 11:40 pm

Route Climbed: hard one for me Date Climbed: july, 2003  Sucess!

amazing. absolutley amazing.

Bootboy

Bootboy - May 29, 2004 2:41 am

Route Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Nice day, good weather until second rap. That got a bit tense. Exum is a cakewalk, awsome mountain though. Coming back for north ridge

t511a

t511a - Apr 28, 2004 10:49 pm

Route Climbed: Exum Ridge Date Climbed: 1Sep2001  Sucess!

storm had just moved thru the night before, left heavy winds for us to climb in. made it a little dodgy. nevertheless, had a great climb. one of the most stunning ranges i've seen.

bteddy - Apr 19, 2004 11:50 pm

Route Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: july '01  Sucess!

nice day good climb. definitly want something more technical like Petzoldt though

jstanley

jstanley - Apr 19, 2004 9:46 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 7 Aug 1970  Sucess!

Khalden Sherpa and I climbed this route in perfect weather. We got off route, as many do, and didn't reach the summit til 6 PM. We descended the Owen Spaulding route and walked down the mountain until it became too dark to go any farther. We bivied and hiked back over the ridge to our campsite the next morning.

gunnersmith

gunnersmith - Apr 18, 2004 8:57 pm

Route Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: August 14, 2002  Sucess!

I live this mountain. I love Jackson. I want to go back for the traverse.

Chris

Chris - Mar 23, 2004 10:09 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 1994  Sucess!

This is an awesome climb! Great views, great rock, super scenic approach... it just doesn't get much better.

t_dub - Nov 6, 2003 9:16 pm

Route Climbed: owen-spalding w/ wittich crack variation Date Climbed: aug '97  Sucess!

Is this not just a beaut of a rock? The view is amazing. Make sure to check out the Black Tail Butte directly east accross the valley. It is supprisingly some great climbing with no approach at all. Just roll out of your tent at GrosVentre and cruise to the parking lot and climb. Can't wait to go back. See you in Moose.

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