Did this in a day (probably the longest of my life!) on the 100th anneversary of Owen and Spalding's FA.
You can't go to the Tetons without looking up at the Grand and wanting to climb it. It's one of my favorite mountains. Climbed to the top with Gary. My friend Chris also made the summit but came up from the Owen-Spalding route. This was a great day.
Direct Exum, 7/27/96, 6/24/06
Enclosure Couloir, 8/3/96
North Face with Direct Finish, 8/10/96
Black Ice Couloir, 8/16/97
Petzolt Ridge to Upper Exum, 7/18/98
Northwest Ridge of Enclosure, 7/19/03
Stettner Couloir, 5/13/06
Upper Exum Ridge, solo, 7/28/06
Cathedral Traverse, via North Ridge, Italian Cracks Variation, 8/13-14/08
East Ridge w/ modified Tricky Traverse var., 8/30/08
Summited late in declining weather. Beautiful sunset from the lower saddle.
Nice climb. Great lightning storms at night. View was fantastic.
First time doing the Grand. Hope to get back this year (2005). Took the guide book and soloed it.
Grand Teton has been called by some " America's Matterhorn." I went to Jackson with my 22 y/o son Christoph to get some rock-climbing experience prior to climbing the " real " Matterhorn. We certainly got some great experiences with the Grand!
Exum Mountain Guides assigned us to Doug Coombs, a famous extreme skier, during our 3-day stay. We practiced rock climbing on different pitches (on all kinds of rock walls) during our first day with Doug. On day 2 we hiked from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle. There was still snow on the ground; indeed, Doug had skied from the top of Grand Teton one week previously. There was just a handful of climbers at the camp. The sky was clear when we arrived but it got quite cold during the night.
We left at 4:35AM for the final climb. The rock surface was dry and there was no ice cover at any point on the ridge. The crossing of the void at " Wall Street " was somewhat nerve-racking while the " Golden Staircase " was the perfect climbing pitch for me. We were able to complete the rest of the ridge climb without major difficulties. Doug was an outstanding guide; he gave us the needed support at critical points of the climb.
We enjoyed the fantastic panorama after reaching the summit at 9:45. The descent was via the Owens-Spalding route; we were back at the Lower Saddle at 1PM just before afternoon showers began. To summarize, Grand Teton is a fantastic place to get great rock-climbing experiences and the Exum guides are the best. Christoph and myself were both able to put into practice at the Matterhorn (less than 6 weeks later) all that we had learned at the Grand.
Short of the summit by 300' due to some route finding issues. Missed the entrance ramp to the Exum ridge and traversed from Petzold ridge to Lower Exum.
Fun route, great view!
my first climb. it occured to me as a good first for anyone entering the sport. needed more lungs at the time.
Summited near the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the OS. Great day.
Third time's a charm! Horrible weather in 2002-- during the same storm that caused deaths on the mountain. Perfect weather in 2003 though. Couldn't ask for a better trip. Left the parking lot at 2:30 AM, back in Jackson by 8:00 that night for pizza! Incredible.
Spent the first two days fighting poor weather (snow). We camped on the Lower Saddle, don't know if I'd do that again (windy and a long ways to pack your stuff). Make sure you can find Wall Street and other key features so that you can get on the rock know where your going. Do your homework.
With E Sandbo, L Rasmussen & M Woodmansee. Hiked in from Jenny Lake to camp in upper basin. Up before light and hiked to start of climb. Chimney was great fun. Partner Mike provided short, yellow-rain squall at belay stance before crux pitch. Rope drag after the crux pitch was significant. Third classing upper part of route, legs wanted to go faster but lungs kept running out of air. Found 1/2 bottle of whiskey and note at summit. Descent uneventful. Glissaded from col, past Ohio Mountaineers ice climbing, steep snow to basin camp. Hiking out met lovely, friendly, topless girls hiking in.
What a great route! Good rock, fun snow and lots of climbing. My fourth time on the summit of the Grand, my fourth route to the summit, and they were all spectacular. Now if only the North Ridge would cooperate . . .
What a route! Some seriously exposed climbing on one of the most complex routes of the Grand. Very alpine, with lots of snow and ice everywhere. Bivied at the moraine of the Teton Glacier, had to traverse quite a bit to get back to our gear. Descended the Teepee Glacier, got see some sweet aspects of the Grand.
Another fantastic Tetons trip!
amazing. absolutley amazing.
Nice day, good weather until second rap. That got a bit tense. Exum is a cakewalk, awsome mountain though. Coming back for north ridge
storm had just moved thru the night before, left heavy winds for us to climb in. made it a little dodgy. nevertheless, had a great climb. one of the most stunning ranges i've seen.