Perfect day for climbing, with great weather and amazing summit views.
We got two permits for the Merain which adds about 45 minutes of hike. We started our adventure at 4 am. and got to the Owen Spalding route to find a line of climbers. After consulting our guide book we found that we were sitting at the base of the Wittich crack variation. It was a good climb with pitons everyonce in a while. The crack leads you back in to a cave that offered warmth during the belay. The next move brings you out on a face fully exposed and then a crawl up to a belay station with another piton. From there its all scrampling and repeling.
We're probably the last party to leave the Lower Saddle just past dawn, but still made pretty good time due to simulclimbing (too much rope drag) and soloing the Upper Exum. Lower Exum was moderate and not all that great. Summit views were awesome!
Soloed the Upper Exum Ridge.
Nice climb, exhausting Apprpoach
Partner and I climbed the route. We bivied low on the glacier the night before, having only sleeping bags for bivy gear. Started on the wall shortly after 6 am. The route was in excellent shape, contrary to what everybody was saying. No major rockfall (only twice we heard rocks zipping by at some distance away from the wall), except for when we already were getting to the 3rd ledge - there was a rockfall lower on the route, followed by some ice, followed by more rock, most likely it was caused by the party on East Ridge. The section of the wall befor Guano chimney wasn't as loose as we expected, you can place pro, and we simul-climbed most of it. Did most of the climb in light boots, except for the upper technical pitches. The crux pithes are fantastic!
Perfect day for climbing. 14 hours from our camp at the Meadows starting at 6 am. Not many people climbing. Dropped our cold weather gear at the Lower Saddle. The usual crew of Scott, Pat, Steve and me. The next day we ran the 38th annual Snow King Hill climb which is a great race, 2.3 miles, 1,571 vertical feet.
Joe Bullough and I made it to the Upper Saddle Rappel via the Upper Exum. High winds and a late time (2pm) forced us to abandon our summit attempt here :_(
We did this car-to-car, leaving at 1:05 am w/o any sleep from the night prior. The high winds made the descent much more grueling than the climb (TR coming soon), and we didn't get back to our car until 10:30 pm. 21:25 hrs on the trail, and I had been awake for 40 hrs!
made it both times with no problems. great rock on exum. did it car to car in a day for the exum because we couldnt get a camping permit.
Did this in a day (probably the longest of my life!) on the 100th anneversary of Owen and Spalding's FA.
You can't go to the Tetons without looking up at the Grand and wanting to climb it. It's one of my favorite mountains. Climbed to the top with Gary. My friend Chris also made the summit but came up from the Owen-Spalding route. This was a great day.
Direct Exum, 7/27/96, 6/24/06
Enclosure Couloir, 8/3/96
North Face with Direct Finish, 8/10/96
Black Ice Couloir, 8/16/97
Petzolt Ridge to Upper Exum, 7/18/98
Northwest Ridge of Enclosure, 7/19/03
Stettner Couloir, 5/13/06
Upper Exum Ridge, solo, 7/28/06
Cathedral Traverse, via North Ridge, Italian Cracks Variation, 8/13-14/08
East Ridge w/ modified Tricky Traverse var., 8/30/08
Summited late in declining weather. Beautiful sunset from the lower saddle.
Nice climb. Great lightning storms at night. View was fantastic.
First time doing the Grand. Hope to get back this year (2005). Took the guide book and soloed it.
Grand Teton has been called by some " America's Matterhorn." I went to Jackson with my 22 y/o son Christoph to get some rock-climbing experience prior to climbing the " real " Matterhorn. We certainly got some great experiences with the Grand!
Exum Mountain Guides assigned us to Doug Coombs, a famous extreme skier, during our 3-day stay. We practiced rock climbing on different pitches (on all kinds of rock walls) during our first day with Doug. On day 2 we hiked from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle. There was still snow on the ground; indeed, Doug had skied from the top of Grand Teton one week previously. There was just a handful of climbers at the camp. The sky was clear when we arrived but it got quite cold during the night.
We left at 4:35AM for the final climb. The rock surface was dry and there was no ice cover at any point on the ridge. The crossing of the void at " Wall Street " was somewhat nerve-racking while the " Golden Staircase " was the perfect climbing pitch for me. We were able to complete the rest of the ridge climb without major difficulties. Doug was an outstanding guide; he gave us the needed support at critical points of the climb.
We enjoyed the fantastic panorama after reaching the summit at 9:45. The descent was via the Owens-Spalding route; we were back at the Lower Saddle at 1PM just before afternoon showers began. To summarize, Grand Teton is a fantastic place to get great rock-climbing experiences and the Exum guides are the best. Christoph and myself were both able to put into practice at the Matterhorn (less than 6 weeks later) all that we had learned at the Grand.
Short of the summit by 300' due to some route finding issues. Missed the entrance ramp to the Exum ridge and traversed from Petzold ridge to Lower Exum.
Fun route, great view!
my first climb. it occured to me as a good first for anyone entering the sport. needed more lungs at the time.