I climbed the Grand once in summer 1993 and ten times in spring/summer 1996 by the following routes: Owen-Spaulding (2x), Direct Exum (2x), Upper Exum, Petzoldt Ridge, Underhill Ridge, East Ridge, North Ridge and North Face. I climbed the North Face in 19.5 hours car to car with someone who later became an Exum Guide. It was our first and only climb together. I made the mistake of starting up the first 5.6/7 pitch in my hiking boots and took a 10-15 foot whipper about 100 feet above the glacier. Brian was probably thinking, "what the hell have I gotten myself into!" I then put on my climbing shoes while hanging from a single cam and tried desperately to redeem myself. We did quite a lot of simul-climbing and encountered occasional showers of rock and ice while on route. We summitted at 4:30 and enjoyed light rain during the rappels on descent. A true alpine experience!
I came to Wyoming with one goal only, to climb the Grand Teton....and after three months of working in Yellowstone and recruiting a crew that would help me make that dream possible, it happened. But, I believe it was a combination of luck, will and determination that helped us to accomplish this feat. Thus to all those that seriously doubted us, and thought that we would die somewhere, somehow on this trip....well it didn't quite work out like that. This was an amazing culmination for me, of a dream, of a plan, of a summit that I wanted to do....
Long day scramble and climb, in part because of the permit system. The Rappel was the most exhilirating part of the day. Regardless of how many people, this peak is special.
What a beautiful place...I can't wait to come back!!
We originally wanted to climb the Exum Direct but it was quite cold in the morning and we didn't want to climb with gloves on. The guide groups left quite a bit earlier than us so we had some trouble finding Broadway to start the Upper Exum. It was obvious once we found it. To help the acclimitization, we spent a night at the Meadows, then the Saddle before summiting.
It was a perfect day and a great scramble/climb. We ran into some traffic on the way up and at the rappels on the way down. The Jackson Mountain guides generously allowed us to alternate with their group on the 120 ft rappel. Thanks guys! Check out the trip photos at http://www.intergate.com/~devendorf/GrandTeton-Jul'05/pages/078f%20Tetons_edited.html
One of the hardest climbs of my life. Winter ascent of the couloir with a finish up the OS for a summit. Round trip, car-to-car was 36 hrs. One of the most demanding days of my life. A day that's been hard to repeat.
Some don't like this route cuz of the amount of scrambling to technical pitches. However, a great mountaineer's route.
Great climb, but, too many people during the main season.
Amazing climb. Just as good as the exum but with no crowds.
Phenominal climb. One of my favorites. Pretty big day out. Climb is loose at first, but gets into some great pitches high up.
Very simple climb. Fun exposure over bellyroll traverse. Car-to-car in 7 hrs.
Spectacular route and mountain. There were several parties on the route which slowed us down a bit but over all a "grand climb".
I feel really fortunate to have bagged the Grand for my first mountain.
I’m from Wyoming and have been around the Tetons growing up, never dreamed I’d see the view from the top!
We were supposed to take Exum Ridge but the weather turned bad in the middle of the night so the Exum guide made the decision to summit via Owen Spalding… very cool alpine type experience in July!
If your thinking about climbing the Grand ‘just do it’.
First trip up Exum was with my wife, Cinda. Met the man himself, Mr. Chounard, on top. Had fun lighting bottle rockets. 2nd time was with my good friend James Barnett. Then, Paul Dowdy and I did the East Ridge in '90. We never did see the approach ledges from the lake in daylight. It was dark when we started, and dark when we finished. Well named mountain, it is GRAND!!!
Constant winds gusting to 50 mph the day and the night prior to the climb made getting sleep at the Exum Hut (Upper Saddle) impossible. Started up with my daughter, Angela Wunderli, at 4:25 a.m. and reached the summit at 9:30. Winds at the summit were still 25-30 mph but didn't hold us back. Amazing vistas and a wonderful 150' rappel on the way down helped make this adventure one we will never forget. Lodging at the Climbers' Ranch was also an adventure!
Keith & I did it in two days in hiking boots - the chute above Black Ice Couloir was icy and scary! Glad Keith led that one!