Grand Teton Climber's Log

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Sam Page

Sam Page - Feb 14, 2006 4:45 am

11x  Sucess!

I climbed the Grand once in summer 1993 and ten times in spring/summer 1996 by the following routes: Owen-Spaulding (2x), Direct Exum (2x), Upper Exum, Petzoldt Ridge, Underhill Ridge, East Ridge, North Ridge and North Face. I climbed the North Face in 19.5 hours car to car with someone who later became an Exum Guide. It was our first and only climb together. I made the mistake of starting up the first 5.6/7 pitch in my hiking boots and took a 10-15 foot whipper about 100 feet above the glacier. Brian was probably thinking, "what the hell have I gotten myself into!" I then put on my climbing shoes while hanging from a single cam and tried desperately to redeem myself. We did quite a lot of simul-climbing and encountered occasional showers of rock and ice while on route. We summitted at 4:30 and enjoyed light rain during the rappels on descent. A true alpine experience!

Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Feb 5, 2006 10:03 am

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: Sept.1, 1974  Sucess!

Classic !!!

Livelife4Summits

Livelife4Summits - Jan 6, 2006 2:31 am

Route Climbed: Owen Spalding Date Climbed: August 1st, 2002  Sucess!

I came to Wyoming with one goal only, to climb the Grand Teton....and after three months of working in Yellowstone and recruiting a crew that would help me make that dream possible, it happened. But, I believe it was a combination of luck, will and determination that helped us to accomplish this feat. Thus to all those that seriously doubted us, and thought that we would die somewhere, somehow on this trip....well it didn't quite work out like that. This was an amazing culmination for me, of a dream, of a plan, of a summit that I wanted to do....

SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Jan 4, 2006 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2000

Route Climbed: Owens Spalding Date Climbed: August 19, 2000  Sucess!

Long day scramble and climb, in part because of the permit system. The Rappel was the most exhilirating part of the day. Regardless of how many people, this peak is special.

markmay

markmay - Dec 8, 2005 9:28 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: July 20 2003  Sucess!

What a beautiful place...I can't wait to come back!!

alpinedan

alpinedan - Nov 15, 2005 10:46 am

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: June 1999  Sucess!

great climb

El_Capitan - Oct 12, 2005 2:20 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: August 13, 2005  Sucess!

We originally wanted to climb the Exum Direct but it was quite cold in the morning and we didn't want to climb with gloves on. The guide groups left quite a bit earlier than us so we had some trouble finding Broadway to start the Upper Exum. It was obvious once we found it. To help the acclimitization, we spent a night at the Meadows, then the Saddle before summiting.

fritzd

fritzd - Oct 6, 2005 9:23 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 28, 2005  Sucess!

It was a perfect day and a great scramble/climb. We ran into some traffic on the way up and at the rappels on the way down. The Jackson Mountain guides generously allowed us to alternate with their group on the 120 ft rappel. Thanks guys! Check out the trip photos at http://www.intergate.com/~devendorf/GrandTeton-Jul'05/pages/078f%20Tetons_edited.html

pwdrqst - Oct 4, 2005 3:05 pm

Route Climbed: Owen-Spaulding Date Climbed: July 12, 2005  Sucess!

Beautiful day...

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:16 pm

Route Climbed: Black Ice Couloir Date Climbed: Feb 2000  Sucess!

One of the hardest climbs of my life. Winter ascent of the couloir with a finish up the OS for a summit. Round trip, car-to-car was 36 hrs. One of the most demanding days of my life. A day that's been hard to repeat.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:15 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: Summer '99  Sucess!

Some don't like this route cuz of the amount of scrambling to technical pitches. However, a great mountaineer's route.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:14 pm

Route Climbed: Exum Date Climbed: Summer '99  Sucess!

Great climb, but, too many people during the main season.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:14 pm

Route Climbed: Petzoldt Ridge Date Climbed: June '04  Sucess!

Amazing climb. Just as good as the exum but with no crowds.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:13 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: July '04  Sucess!

Phenominal climb. One of my favorites. Pretty big day out. Climb is loose at first, but gets into some great pitches high up.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:11 pm

Route Climbed: OS Date Climbed: Summer of '99  Sucess!

Very simple climb. Fun exposure over bellyroll traverse. Car-to-car in 7 hrs.

millerw05

millerw05 - Sep 15, 2005 1:25 pm

Route Climbed: Owen Spalding (original route) Date Climbed: August, 1993  Sucess!

Spectacular route and mountain. There were several parties on the route which slowed us down a bit but over all a "grand climb".

rcmof - Sep 8, 2005 12:27 am

Route Climbed: Owen Spalding Date Climbed: July 29, 2005  Sucess!

I feel really fortunate to have bagged the Grand for my first mountain.

I’m from Wyoming and have been around the Tetons growing up, never dreamed I’d see the view from the top!

We were supposed to take Exum Ridge but the weather turned bad in the middle of the night so the Exum guide made the decision to summit via Owen Spalding… very cool alpine type experience in July!

If your thinking about climbing the Grand ‘just do it’.

tdoughty

tdoughty - Sep 4, 2005 9:33 pm

Route Climbed: Exum x 2 ('82 & '85), East Ridge ('90) Date Climbed: August '82, '85, '90  Sucess!

First trip up Exum was with my wife, Cinda. Met the man himself, Mr. Chounard, on top. Had fun lighting bottle rockets. 2nd time was with my good friend James Barnett. Then, Paul Dowdy and I did the East Ridge in '90. We never did see the approach ledges from the lake in daylight. It was dark when we started, and dark when we finished. Well named mountain, it is GRAND!!!

Moogie737

Moogie737 - Aug 27, 2005 1:08 am

Route Climbed: Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 25, 2005  Sucess!

Constant winds gusting to 50 mph the day and the night prior to the climb made getting sleep at the Exum Hut (Upper Saddle) impossible. Started up with my daughter, Angela Wunderli, at 4:25 a.m. and reached the summit at 9:30. Winds at the summit were still 25-30 mph but didn't hold us back. Amazing vistas and a wonderful 150' rappel on the way down helped make this adventure one we will never forget. Lodging at the Climbers' Ranch was also an adventure!

breadbox

breadbox - Aug 22, 2005 1:38 pm

Route Climbed: O/S Date Climbed: August 1994  Sucess!

Keith & I did it in two days in hiking boots - the chute above Black Ice Couloir was icy and scary! Glad Keith led that one!

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