Tried to bring my (new to climbing boyfriend) up the route - but he was not comfortable with his abilities.. Ended up hooking up with two boys from Texas. One of the two got sick and we sent him down. Ended up having a great day with Gregg (who after we got off route by traversing almost all the way to the North side of the Grand) had to warm my frozen hands up before we completed the climb in less than an hour.
Super fun day - would love to back and do the Exum Ridge... maybe someone can talk the park service into shortening those -way to long- switch backs on the approach :D
Climbed with Aaron, Barry and Cinda...bivied at the Moraine and had a long but fun day. The V-pitch was my favorite! Weather was good except for a few sprinkles descending between the Upper Saddle and Lower Saddle. Thanks to Christian and Adam for letting us join ropes on the raps...very cool of you! And good job to you doing the Complete Exum car-to-car that day!!
After getting snowed off the N. Ridge we punted and soloed the Upper Exum. Have climbed the Smith Otter Body, N. Ridge, Upper and lower Exum and Underhill. Been on top 7 times.
We solo downclimbed the Upper Exum after climbing the Smith/Otterbody route on the S. Face.
Bivied at Lower Saddle. The chimneys on the upper part of the route were iced up, making for a much more interesting climb than the guidebook description would suggest.
My partner bailed so I went solo. My first technical alpine climb that I soloed! Great time, although a long day!
Great route on a great mountain coinciding beautifully with great weather and great partners (Kevin, Joshua and Geno).
What a monster! climbed Upper Exum, a classic indeed!
With Margaret Pratt. A classic.
Done again with SPer kennedy3 on 8/25/2012.
summitted via Upper Exum Ridge in a frightening building thunderstorm. The single best climb I've ever done.
What a great way to spend a holiday! It was a last-minute trip that I'll never forget. Next time I'll take more food. And a rope ;)
I especially enjoyed the shadow of the Grand falling on Idaho as the sun rose. What a wonderful morning.
I jumped the gap that was supposed to be a hand traverse on Wall Street. Later I heard Glen Exum did the same thing on his first ascent. Validation is a beautiful thing.
I summited with ( nuttylos )Carlos and Paul it was a good time. We did the O.S. route
Marcus Folger and I climbed the Direct Exum in summer of 1997. We bivied at the moraines, then did the route and came back down in one day. I remember the route-finding on the upper part of the lower Exum was tricky. I think I got off-route and ended up going sideways along a horizontal crack, but I eventually got back on route and the crux 5.7 pitch was fantastic. The exposure was amazing and the rock was perfect and took great pro. The upper Exum was fun and easy, though long. We actually bailed a pitch or two below the summit by traversing over to the Owen-Spalding rappels because Marcus had some bad blisters on his feet. All in all, it was a great day.
Chris Thomas and I climbed the North Face in summer of 2001. We bivied before getting on the glacier, got up very early, and blasted the route in approach shoes, summitted, then hurried down the Garnet Canyon trail back to the car all in one day. The weather was perfect and so was the climb. I highly recommend this one.