Grand Teton Climber's Log

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tonybell1 - Feb 26, 2003 6:11 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 30, 1986  Sucess!

First time to the summit


bighurtbob - Feb 7, 2003 1:17 pm

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: Augst 1997  Sucess!

Nice route

OregonNative - Dec 1, 2002 12:00 pm

Route Climbed: Petzoldt Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 2002  Sucess!

Climbed car to car with JZ. Finished on the Ford Couloir rather than traverse to the the Exum. The Ford was 4th class mud. I always imagined this mountain bigger than it turned out to be. We met some nice people from the Mid-West who shared the walk back to the lower saddle.


asmrz - Nov 16, 2002 9:34 pm

Route Climbed: The complete Exum Ridge III, 5.7 Date Climbed: July 1989  Sucess!

Bill Krause and I climbed the lower and upper Exum in 1989 from our camp at the Meadows. Great route.


asmrz - Nov 16, 2002 9:26 pm

Route Climbed: The North Ridge variation IV,5.9 Date Climbed: August 1991  Sucess!

In summer of 1991, Bill Krause and I climbed the classic North Ridge from Valhalla Canyon. We climbed the Italian Cracks variation(5.8) and above, added a 5.9 hand crack pitch and two 5.8 face climbing pitches to reach the top. Tom Turiano (local Guide) and the late Leigh Ortenburger called it "The North Ridge without the chimneys", but somehow it never made it into any of the Guide Books after Leigh died. We thought it was a great, clean climb, avoiding the wet chimneys of the regular North Ridge.


asmrz - Nov 16, 2002 9:11 pm

Route Climbed: The Complete Black Ice Couloir from Valhalla Canyon V,5.7 Date Climbed: August 1989  Sucess!

In August of 1989, Bill Krause and I climbed the complete Black Ice Couloir in a day from Valhalla Canyon. This was our second attempt on the route, having been lost on the Valhalla Traverse the year before. A great climb and great company. This is another unforgetable trip. I remember meeting Jack Tackle at the Lower Saddle and swapping lies for hours..


azalea4460 - Oct 18, 2002 12:21 pm

Route Climbed: Owen Spaulding with Variations Date Climbed: September 10, 2002  Sucess!

After a weekend of early fall snow, our team of 5 climbed the Owen Spaulding in true alpine conditions. Reached the summit in the afternoon in gorgeous weather. Climbed the rock, snow, and ice with crampons and axe and threw in a few variations up alternate chimneys. My first experience climbing rock in crampons -- I discovered that it has its advantages on small flakes. This was part of the Exxum late summer alpine mountaineering seminar. Great experience and fun climbing.


rmjwinters - Oct 5, 2002 9:39 pm

Route Climbed: Owen Spaulding Date Climbed: August 15 1998  Sucess!

This was my fifth summit of The Grand. I love this mountain. Climbed both Exxum and Owen Spaulding. this mountain has something for everyone and always affords me the adventure I seek.


cruzit - Sep 24, 2002 5:59 pm

Route Climbed: Owens Spaulding Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!

Reached the summit on a beautiful, clear day. Thanks to my husband Alan, who told me I could. And to Dasch, Jeremey, and once again Alan, for pretending I was keeping up most of time. Finally, as alway, thanks to the mountain.

kentappen - Sep 18, 2002 11:04 am

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: September 14, 2002  Sucess!

Climbed quickly with Exum Guide Brian Prax, summited around 10:00 AM. Spent 45 minutes on the summit, not a cloud in the sky, low wind and pretty warm. Descent via Owen-Spalding was slowed by a considerable amount of snow and ice. Once we put on crampons, it really expedited things. Great climb on a great mountain!


Josh - Sep 16, 2002 9:12 am

Route Climbed: Direct Exum Ridge (5.7, III/IV) Date Climbed: September 15, 2002  Sucess!

Free-soloed the Direct Exum Ridge in under an hour. Down-climbing the Owen Spalding route in rock shoes was quite an adventure due to snow and ice. Trip report here.


cluck - Sep 11, 2002 12:52 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: September 4, 2002  Sucess!

Beautiful rock and fantastic views! We climbed in two days with Exum guides. Perfect weather on both days. The Upper Exum Ridge has sensational low 5th class climbing with great exposure.

We summitted at 11:30 after making several variations of the Exum Ridge including climbing to the top of Carman's Pinnacle on the west edge of the ridge and scaling a slightly overhanging 20 wall to re-gain the standard route below the Horse.

The descent down Owen Spaulding was unremarkable except for a couple icy chimneys and a sweet 120 foot rappel.

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Aug 25, 2002 10:40 am

Route Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!

Summited in perfect weather. Thanks to my wife, Jackie and also to Dasch and Jeremy from OR who we met at the Lower Saddle. You guys were great! See our trip report with photos here.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 10:11 am

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Aug 1965 & 18 Aug 1970  Sucess!

1965 (age 16) with the Exum guides - took their climbing school and finally learned how to use a rope.

1970 with Bob & Kathy Schultz.


gato - Jul 12, 2002 11:06 am

Route Climbed: Exum Direct (Lower and Upper Exum) Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Did the Grand car-to-car in 18.5 hrs with Stuart Cowles. After 6 failed attempts via various routes, the mountain gods finally rewarded my persistence!

Started at 3am from Lupine Meadows, started climbing ~ 8 am, summitted ~ 3pm. Down and out in the afternoon/evening. Great weather, only one other party on the Exum that day.

One of the most rewarding mountain routes I've done, especially the lower portion. Great exposure, bomber rock.

BicRungee - Jul 10, 2002 4:41 pm

Route Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: September, 1998  Sucess!

With Noonan, Dad Sherman & Geo the Dude.


Vinny - Jun 28, 2002 3:31 am

Route Climbed: Lower and Upper Exum Date Climbed: July 1997

A fantastic experience! great rock in a Wicked setting!

Look for the cave under a boulder in the flats as a bivy before the lower saddle.

Enjoyed climbing with Bill from Iowa- Bill where are you now?

Turned into a bit of an epic helping out this father and son team from Salt Lake. Nice people but well ...

Also recommend are Irene's arete and Valhalla couloir.

I love Tetons! : ) oh and the Tetons too...


kletterwebbi - Apr 25, 2002 5:59 am

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 1996  Sucess!

A very fine climb ... enjoyed it very much.

We was a party of three. One of us, Klaus, have made his first summit above 4000 m. Great mountain to do that.


darinchadwick - Apr 4, 2002 6:24 am

Route Climbed: Owens Spaulding Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!

Many thanks to Mike and Jeff for helping us out. We weren't exactly lost, but not doing too hot either. The bellycrawl is fun no matter how much experience you have. Ice in the chimney kept that more interesting as well. One of the finest summits ever. Not too pointy, but Idaho and Wyoming are so flat, the mountain so high.

Saw Exum ridge from the summit of Middle Teton a few years back. Must do it.

Paul Burkholder

Paul Burkholder - Oct 25, 2001 7:27 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Exum Date Climbed: July 1998  Sucess!

Finally reached the summit with friend Bruce D after being weathered off on several previous attemps (all in September of different years). I will probably remember this climb for the rest of my life. Everything came together: The weather was beautiful, and thanks to a somewhat late start from the lower saddle, we had the summit all to ourselves!

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