Grand Teton Climber's Log

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builttospill

builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Two Climbs, One Month  Sucess!

August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.

August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.

merrill

merrill - May 31, 2010 10:36 pm

Re: Two Climbs, One Month

Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.

biz

biz - Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.

bryangast

bryangast - Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993

Close call  Sucess!

Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.

bird

bird - Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Super fun on Upper Exum  Sucess!

Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!

Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009

OS  Sucess!

12.5h CTC

b.

b. - Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Black Ice Couloir  Sucess!

Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.

Misha

Misha - Sep 7, 2009 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Etsuko and I hauled our packs to the Lower Saddle the day before. My watch (and its alarm) broke down on the way up. Woke up way too late but went up the route anyway. Pitched out Lower Exum and solo'd most of the Upper ridge. Topped out with one hour of daylight to spare and decided to spend the night on the summit instead of braving a blind/unknown descent down iced up Owen-Spalding. In retrospect, it was a great idea; cloudless warm night on the summit of this great mountain is hard to beat! This is a beautiful and truly classic route!

merrill

merrill - Aug 30, 2009 9:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

OS  Sucess!

Took 3 new guys up the OS with a bunch of ice and snow left over from the recent snow but we made it despite waiting 3 hours at the upper saddle for the 16+ climbers ahead of our group. Chalk up a successful #3.

jvoss

jvoss - Aug 10, 2009 12:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

OS Summit  Sucess!

Great climb with Exum. Reached summit at 7:45am and watched "Old Faithful" erupt. PERFECT weather - guide didn't even use his headlamp due to full moon and balmy conditions. Back to the saddle before 11:00am.

David Mortensen

David Mortensen - Aug 6, 2009 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1996

Exum Ridge  Sucess!

I climbed the upper exum route. Incredible.

CBakwin

CBakwin - Aug 4, 2009 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2009

Yo  Sucess!

4 hrs from the saddle to the summit via upper Exum (including a wrong turn up OS that cost us about 600' vert). 6 hours out to TH. Very fantastic climb!

davebobk47

davebobk47 - Jul 31, 2009 12:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

OS Owen Chimney  Sucess!

Started up the Upper Exum but bailed quickly due to ugly looking clouds. Made it up the OS Owen Chimney var. Some ice still in the chimney from a nasty storm that hit 2 days prior. Amazing summit.

gobriango

gobriango - Jul 29, 2009 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009

Upper Exum  Sucess!

First multi pitch climb for me .... Absolutely fabulous !!! Unbelievable time with great friends. Will be back to the Grand for more I'm sure.

Brad Snider

Brad Snider - Jul 23, 2009 12:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2009

Upper Exum w/ Exum Guides  Sucess!

Awesome climb with great guides--Rick and Brian--plus a great group, and superb weather.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Jul 15, 2009 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008

Easiest Route  Sucess!

Great climb with Adam from CoHP and Kevin Mahoney guide from Exum.

courtpace

courtpace - Jun 1, 2009 2:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2008

failed attempt

Slept in parking lot under an excursion because of rainfall and lack of tent. Started hiking at about 2. Made it to the saddle in 3 hours. Weather was bad and snowy. Planned on upper exum route but only made it to the eye of needle and turned back. Next time....

bfrench

bfrench - Apr 28, 2009 12:34 am

Grand Teton  Sucess!

One of my favorites.

NCclimber

NCclimber - Mar 15, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Upper Exum

Finished the V-pitch, went around to the left (wrong) side of the wall, decided to bail down the rappel to save light. WoundedKnee and I will be back to finish it...

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