Grand Teton Climber's Log

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jdw10 - Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008

Grand Teton  Sucess!

Successful Summit with Exum Guides

Vertigo soul

Vertigo soul - Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner/Chevy/Ford  Sucess!

Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!


gcap - Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.


merrill - May 31, 2010 10:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004

Upper Exum  Sucess!

First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.


merrill - May 31, 2010 10:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

Owen-Spaulding  Sucess!

Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.


moneal - Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010

Full Exum  Sucess!

Lower Exum is all that.


reboyles - Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973

Smith-Otter Body  Sucess!

Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.


builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Two Climbs, One Month  Sucess!

August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.

August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.


merrill - May 31, 2010 10:36 pm

Re: Two Climbs, One Month

Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.


biz - Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.


bryangast - Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993

Close call  Sucess!

Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.


bird - Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Super fun on Upper Exum  Sucess!

Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!

Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009

OS  Sucess!

12.5h CTC


b. - Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Black Ice Couloir  Sucess!

Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.


Misha - Sep 7, 2009 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Etsuko and I hauled our packs to the Lower Saddle the day before. My watch (and its alarm) broke down on the way up. Woke up way too late but went up the route anyway. Pitched out Lower Exum and solo'd most of the Upper ridge. Topped out with one hour of daylight to spare and decided to spend the night on the summit instead of braving a blind/unknown descent down iced up Owen-Spalding. In retrospect, it was a great idea; cloudless warm night on the summit of this great mountain is hard to beat! This is a beautiful and truly classic route!


merrill - Aug 30, 2009 9:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

OS  Sucess!

Took 3 new guys up the OS with a bunch of ice and snow left over from the recent snow but we made it despite waiting 3 hours at the upper saddle for the 16+ climbers ahead of our group. Chalk up a successful #3.


jvoss - Aug 10, 2009 12:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

OS Summit  Sucess!

Great climb with Exum. Reached summit at 7:45am and watched "Old Faithful" erupt. PERFECT weather - guide didn't even use his headlamp due to full moon and balmy conditions. Back to the saddle before 11:00am.

David Mortensen

David Mortensen - Aug 6, 2009 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1996

Exum Ridge  Sucess!

I climbed the upper exum route. Incredible.


CBakwin - Aug 4, 2009 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2009

Yo  Sucess!

4 hrs from the saddle to the summit via upper Exum (including a wrong turn up OS that cost us about 600' vert). 6 hours out to TH. Very fantastic climb!

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