Successful Summit with Exum Guides
Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!
Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.
First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.
Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
Lower Exum is all that.
Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.
August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.
August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.
Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.
Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.
Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.
Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!
Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...
Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.
Etsuko and I hauled our packs to the Lower Saddle the day before. My watch (and its alarm) broke down on the way up. Woke up way too late but went up the route anyway. Pitched out Lower Exum and solo'd most of the Upper ridge. Topped out with one hour of daylight to spare and decided to spend the night on the summit instead of braving a blind/unknown descent down iced up Owen-Spalding. In retrospect, it was a great idea; cloudless warm night on the summit of this great mountain is hard to beat! This is a beautiful and truly classic route!
Took 3 new guys up the OS with a bunch of ice and snow left over from the recent snow but we made it despite waiting 3 hours at the upper saddle for the 16+ climbers ahead of our group. Chalk up a successful #3.
Great climb with Exum. Reached summit at 7:45am and watched "Old Faithful" erupt. PERFECT weather - guide didn't even use his headlamp due to full moon and balmy conditions. Back to the saddle before 11:00am.
I climbed the upper exum route. Incredible.
4 hrs from the saddle to the summit via upper Exum (including a wrong turn up OS that cost us about 600' vert). 6 hours out to TH. Very fantastic climb!