Grand Teton Climber's Log

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seano

seano - Jul 12, 2010 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.

Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.

montyq2 - Jul 10, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!

jamesmc2

jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 12:57 am

Finally Made It

First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.

mongoose762

mongoose762 - Jul 4, 2010 7:06 pm

Owen Spaulding Route  Sucess!

Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.

jdw10

jdw10 - Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008

Grand Teton  Sucess!

Successful Summit with Exum Guides
07/05/08

Vertigo soul

Vertigo soul - Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner/Chevy/Ford  Sucess!

Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!

gcap

gcap - Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Stettner Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.

merrill

merrill - May 31, 2010 10:36 pm

Re: Two Climbs, One Month

Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.

merrill

merrill - May 31, 2010 10:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004

Upper Exum  Sucess!

First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.

merrill

merrill - May 31, 2010 10:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

Owen-Spaulding  Sucess!

Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.

moneal

moneal - Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010

Full Exum  Sucess!

Lower Exum is all that.

reboyles

reboyles - Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973

Smith-Otter Body  Sucess!

Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.

builttospill

builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Two Climbs, One Month  Sucess!

August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.

August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.

biz

biz - Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010

Upper Exum  Sucess!

Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.

bryangast

bryangast - Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993

Close call  Sucess!

Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.

bird

bird - Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Super fun on Upper Exum  Sucess!

Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!

Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009

OS  Sucess!

12.5h CTC

b.

b. - Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Black Ice Couloir  Sucess!

Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.

Misha

Misha - Sep 7, 2009 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Etsuko and I hauled our packs to the Lower Saddle the day before. My watch (and its alarm) broke down on the way up. Woke up way too late but went up the route anyway. Pitched out Lower Exum and solo'd most of the Upper ridge. Topped out with one hour of daylight to spare and decided to spend the night on the summit instead of braving a blind/unknown descent down iced up Owen-Spalding. In retrospect, it was a great idea; cloudless warm night on the summit of this great mountain is hard to beat! This is a beautiful and truly classic route!

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