The Upper Exum (5.4) has the same degree of difficulty but is usually ice-free earlier in the year because it is completely south facing. The disadvantage to the Exum is that the entire route is exposed and difficult to bail off of. If a storm comes, you're stuck, with little options for retreat. The key is to start very early to avoid the storms.....like around 4:30 am from the upper saddle. Scope out the section directly above the black dike the afternoon before because it is very tricky in the dark during an early morning approach. Ideally, you should be at the end of Wall Street and on the ridge as the sun is coming up. The other disadvantage is that the descent requires good route finding skills while downclimbing/rappelling the OS. However, you will hopefully meet other climbers on the OS which can help you find the way down. I would recommend the upper Exum as an alternative to the OS.
The complete Exum (5.7) is also a great route, but longer and combines the upper Exum with a 5.7 section at the bottom of the ridge. It is also usually ice-free due to south facing. Check out the SP pages for details on both routes.
Alan Ellis - May 13, 2008 4:59 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: owen spaldingThe Upper Exum (5.4) has the same degree of difficulty but is usually ice-free earlier in the year because it is completely south facing. The disadvantage to the Exum is that the entire route is exposed and difficult to bail off of. If a storm comes, you're stuck, with little options for retreat. The key is to start very early to avoid the storms.....like around 4:30 am from the upper saddle. Scope out the section directly above the black dike the afternoon before because it is very tricky in the dark during an early morning approach. Ideally, you should be at the end of Wall Street and on the ridge as the sun is coming up. The other disadvantage is that the descent requires good route finding skills while downclimbing/rappelling the OS. However, you will hopefully meet other climbers on the OS which can help you find the way down. I would recommend the upper Exum as an alternative to the OS.
The complete Exum (5.7) is also a great route, but longer and combines the upper Exum with a 5.7 section at the bottom of the ridge. It is also usually ice-free due to south facing. Check out the SP pages for details on both routes.
pcbros - May 14, 2008 3:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: owen spaldingwill do. Thanks very much. This site has been extremely helpful.
Cedar - Sep 8, 2009 8:29 pm - Voted 10/10
Webcam Moved!The image turns up text saying the cam has moved and to update your links.
Alan Ellis - Sep 9, 2009 8:04 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Webcam Moved!Thank you. The links and page have been updated.
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