Grandes Jorasses, north face...

Grandes Jorasses, north face - the classic routes:


1b = “Le Linceul” (The Shroud: Flematti/Desmaison, 1968, TD+, IV/4, 750m to the Hirondelles ridge, 1100 to the Walker) This is the original right hand start of the Linceuil, more frequently used these days because easier,


1a = The left hand start of "Le Linceul", first used by Graham and Hyslop in 1980, ED1, V/5.


2 = Cassin Route (Cassin/Esposito/Tizzoni, 1938, TD+/ED1, 1200m.) This is not the original line, but the one most commonly used today, including the Rebuffat variant opened in the second ascent.


3 = MacIntyre - Colton (Colton/MacIntyre, 1976, ED2, A1,VI/6, 90°,1150m.). In the last few year some of the repeaters end the route in the depression between Pt. Walker and Pt. Wyhmper, basically avoiding the crux of the original route (the narrow between the middle and the upper icefield, nat always formed) and taking the right hand couloir where the "Alexis" route does pass. However, the original line (shown here) is more aestetical and, in some conditions, safer.


4a = Croz Spur (Meier/Peters, 1935, 1,000m, TD+/ED1). The original start, now rarely used because of he objective danger,


4b = the alternative start of the Croz route via the "couloir face au Periades". Less dangerous than the original start but more difficult.


4c = the line most commonly used today in winter/autumn attempts to the Croz Spur, linking the beginning of the Slovenian Route with the so called Winter Variant of the upper Croz Route. It does maximize ice climbing, while keeping objective dangers to an amenable level.


5 = Bonatti-Vaucher (Bonatti/Vaucher, 1964, 1,100m, ED2/3, 6c+ or A2+, M5/6,1100m.)

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tomi

tomi - Feb 1, 2005 4:27 pm - Voted 10/10

Great shot...

and good informations.

Thanks for posting.

signorellil - Feb 2, 2005 5:38 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great shot...

thank you!

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