Climbed the Pointe Walker and the normal route from ref. Boccalatte.
Summitted with Ronan O'Siochru Irish climber met in Chamonix
Climbed the couloir between the Whymper spur and the serac.
Epic NF climb! Massive route. Difficult climbing. No words!
That summer the weather was so good that the Walker spur was done as many times as since its first ascent by Riccardo Cassin in 1938. With my pal, Habib, we were used as 'porters' by our friend Denise Escande who was climbing with her guide 'Cabri' (Theron). They gave us so much gear and food to carry that the morning of our second bivouac (we did not stop at the Leschaux hut but went up and made a bivouac under the Rebuffat cracks) that we threw overboard many 'luxuries' which we decided were now far too heavy for our backs and unecessary! Furthermore Denise decided that I needed a new pair of boots as mine had holes in front, and I exchanged a new pair for 2 karabiners with a guide at the EHM. We were so heavily loaded that we were overtaken by 1 party: Gerard Devouassoux with Yvon Masino who were the second to climb it in one day (13h) after C. Bonington and I. Clough (2 days before). We made the 18th ascent.
Normal route from Boccalatte Hut.
Climbed with Walter Phipps during my first season in the Alps. Bivied high on the route and a storm came in. Joined other climbers at the bivi to finish the route in difficult conditions. Memorable.
Reached Pt. Whymper with Thomas on day two of the traverse just as a storm was breaking. We skipped Pt. Walker and descended the normal route with snow falling and lightning making our axes hum.
incredible gully, a crack in perfect red rock looking to the sun.
really bad ice...thinking about the comino-grassi ascent in 1978 with straight axes makes me feel small.
quite 10h walking for only 300m ice, only for serial climber...really out of guidelines of contemporary alpinisme...but so modern, 30 years ahead its time.
Dangerous in the summer. Should have thought about it: a south facing glacier! Several narrow escapes from "coulees" and "holes".
Easy climb to mysterious mountain but you must be
Very young and full of enthousiasm, we went to this route with two friends Jacques and Yves and almost no experience (as far as I was concerned) in mountain climbing. The whether was very hot this year and the top of the route was almost dry, which is unusual. Several other climbers were in the north face, causing lots of rock falls. Our progression was so slow that we had to bivy twice ! It took a long time before I came back to mountain climbing after this adventure.
Useless to say that this route requires a lot of experience in mountain climbing though the intrinsic difficulty of the pitches is not that high.