Oh my gosh, what a BEAST!!! Did this monster in one day, and almost fully regret it. I am glad to be done with that one. I normally don't write trip reports, but this one is very deserving of one. There are some things I'd like to share that may be helpful. So pics and trip report to come.
Weathered off, turned back at snow bridge. :( One of the most fun trips yet, due to great partners, location, etc.
Absolutely perfect weather on FTD plateau. Snow bridge was easy to walk across. Had the mountain entirely to ourselves. Technically it was pretty easy but I found the route finding to be difficult to stay on the 4th class stuff. We used hip belays in a few spots and down climbed everything instead of rapping. 7 hrs in from East Rosebud to Tempest. 6 hrs round trip to summit and then 5.5 more hours back down to East Rosebud.
Second attempt. Long approach. I thought the hike from W. Rosebud was a better choice than E. Rosebud. 8 hours from W. Rosebud to 12,000 feet on FTD (with some route difficulties). Four hours from high camp to summit (belayed snow bridge and one move on climb). I don't think I'd want to do climb without rope for raps.
Quick two day summit. Weather was good overall, aside from a thunderstorm on way out. Decent amount of snow and water on Froze-to-death. Snow all the way from Tempest-Granite col to snow-bridge. Left ice-ax and crampons behind after bridge. After climbing first section. Realized axe wouldn't have been a bad idea to have after two scetchy snow traverses. Was solo and got bit off route and ended up climbing 5.6-7? chimney in plastic boots(over-kill? yes. only boots I had at time though) Fantastic fun overall.
We did the SW Couloir in perfect weather. See Splattski's report on the SW Couloir route page.
Made the FTD boulder hop harder than it had to be due to fog, then it cleared. A good climb the next day, though we didn't set any speed records. Some study needed to stay on route.
Soloed Granite in a day from Mystic and over Froze-to-Death - my 50th Birthday "celebration"...11 hours car to car. Only spent a few minutes on top since it was snowing. My 8th time on the summit, 7th one-day ascent...first time alone.
Paul Sturman, Bozeman, MT
Ascended Froze-to-Death via a couloir about 1/4 mile east of the Anti Duct tower. So many raspberries! We camped about one mile from the snow bridge, and encountered a fierce lightning storm in the night followed by snow and rain the next morning.
Camped at Rough Lake on a five day traverse through "The Top of the World." From Rough Lake I crossed over the pass between the lake and Sky Top Lakes Basin leaving at 8:30. Made descent time over the talus and boulder hoping terrain in 2 hours to the base of "the slab." Ascended solo up the SW Couloir following the obvious path of past climbers. Summited in 1 hour 30 min. Found I had the route to myself which was awesome. Just me and the mountain!! The Couloir is listed as class 3 and lived up to its billing as the "Bowling Alley." Plenty of falling rock so no brainer on the helmet. No ice ax needed for the few remaining ice patches as routes around them were evident. Fantastic exposure higher up and amazing views!!
Approached via Froze-to-Death and summited under blue skies and minimal wind. No other parties summiting that day; nice to have the mountain to ourselves! Avoided the Labor Day crowds and counted 26 people on the trail attempting the summit on 9/6/09. Weather moving in though, did any of you make it?
During morning hours and with only 540' elevation to go to the summit, in the Southwest Couloir, I suddenly had a bad feeling that a freak storm was coming. It was one of those "smell a storm coming" moments. Although we knew we could reach the summit OK, we were concerned about the possibility of questionable weather while trying to descend the couloir, so my partner and I agreed to turn around. Shortly after getting off the mountain, we turned around and could no longer see the mountain! We considered waiting out the storm to make another attempt, but the storm lasted (for the most part) for two days! It was a frustrating decision to turn around, but it was the right decision. We lived to climb another day, and the mountain is not going anywhere.
took us 11 1/2 hrs from east rosebud, would have been shorter if we hadn't been delayed by so many enticing raspberries along the trail.
Climbed from high camp in Skytop drainage with my wife, a buddy and our two pups. Made the summit in under 2 hours and were amazed to find the summit empty until 10 am or so. Really quite plesant for a high pressure Saturday in August after all the terrible tales of crowds!
The Phantom Creek Trail is fantastic and very easy going. Boulder hopping across Froze-To-Death Plateau sucks. The plateau was cold, windy and miserable as advertised. The weather was marginal, but we managed to squeeze in the climb on a sunny morning. Ascent took less then 4 hours. Descent back to the snow bridge took about an hour, then it snowed the rest of the hike back to camp. I thought the upper portion of the route was an extremely fun scramble. Had the mountain to ourselves and only caught sight of 3 people during our two day stay on the plateau!
Summitted on the day before the weather started to turn bad. Took our time and spent some extra days around Mystic Lake. Lots of people on the plateau, as usual. A helmet is the only essential need, especially if people are climbing above you. A couple goats reached the top before us, but other than that, we had the mountain to ourselves.
Climbed with Michael via the Southwest Couloir. Suffered through wind and snow, but we persevered and eventually reached the summit. A 14 hour round trip from base camp at Lower Areo Lake.
5 hours from w. rosebud to tempest. 11 hour break. 3 hours to summit. 8 hours out hucklebery. hucklebery was absolutely awful!
great climb!!! Not so good weather. rained every day. and on the way out it stormed 4 $#@%!!! times on us.(very wet)
CMC Expedition Co-chair and trip leader for the 2009 Western Outing. Summitted as a group of 6 with the Chicago Mountaineering Club. We belayed 2 pitches going up and then played leap frog with 2 ropes going down which sped up the descent. Altogether 10 of 14 people in the group made the summit, 2 people opted not to climb, and 2 had to turn back above the keyhole due to an approaching storm. I was on top during the best weather window of the week. This is my 30th state HP and the second of three during this trip. Four of us clmbed Harney Peak first and then White Butte afterwards. Great climb! Tough approach!