Gross Bielenhorn

Overview

Gross Bielenhorn 2940 m

Gross Bielenhorn  is a beatiful granite mountain located near the Furkapass in Switzerland.  It's the bigger brother of Chli Bielenhorn.  Both these granite peaks, separated by a saddle named Untere Bielenlücke and located in the vicinity of Furkapass in Switzerland, belong to the Uri Alps Group.  This mountain offers excellent rock climbing on wonderfull granite in UIAA IV-V. It is often climbed on the E and SE ridges.  

The climbing is varied with cracks, dihedrals and slabs.The easiest route (and descent) is rated UIAA II-III so there is no way to walk to the top. Take a rockclimbing rack supplemented with some cams and nuts. Good rock climbing skills, routefinding skills and experience with nuts and friends are required for all routes on the mountain.

Getting There

Road access

From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. Stop about 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).

Walking approach

After passing through the Tiefenbach houses, park at a bridge over a stream (signposted for Siedelen Hutte). The first part takes place on the path that goes up to the Siedelenhutte; after passing the shelter, we continue, at first for debris, and then for the Siedelen glacier towards the wall. Keeping to the left side of the river you reach the base of the Gross Bielenhorn.

Routes

 East Ridge III-IV, 3-4h. First ascent: J. Marmet & G. Styger 1949

South-East Ridge IV+, V or A0, 4h. First ascent: A. & O. Amstand & G. Masetto 1935

South Ridge III-IV, few ropelenghts V, 5-6h. First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & A. Schelbert, 1968

SW-Wall Variante I VI-, A1/VI, 5-6h. First ascent: N. Baumann & Müller, 1964

SW-Wall Variante II VI-A2, 3-6h. First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & M. Niedermann, 1956 A very fine, difficult (VI-A2) rock climb of about 300m drop (14 pitches) starting in a superficial dihedral 20m to the left of a wide dihedral/channel.

West Pillar IV-V+, A2, 4-5h. First ascent: Nedela, Niedermann & Tischhauser, 1972

SW-Wall of the NW-Summitridge V-V+, A1, 4-5h. First ascent: P. Casanella & Zembrowski, 1974

Red Tape

None at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from november till may.

Huts

Sidelenhütte (2708m) Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.

When To Climb

Best time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.

Camping

Realp Camping (1510m): Open in from June to September. 

Meteo

Meteo Switzerland

Guidebooks and Maps

Guidebooks

Schweiz Plaisir West, J. von Känel, ISBN 3906087069 Clubführer Urner Alpen 2, T. Fullin & A. Bahnhölzer, ISBN 3859022229

Maps: Urseren Blatt 1231