Gross Bielenhorn 2940 m
Gross Bielenhorn is a beatiful granite mountain near the Furkapass in Switzerland. It's the bigger brother of Chli Bielenhorn. Both these granite peaks, separated by a saddle named Untere Bielenlücke and located in the vicinity of Furkapass in Switzerland, belong to the Uri Alps Group.
This mountain offers excellent rock climbing on wonderfull granite in UIAA IV-V. It is often climbed on the E and SE ridges. The climbing is varied with cracks, dihedrals and slabs.The easiest route (and descent) is rated UIAA II-III so there is no way to walk to the top. Take a rockclimbing rack supplemented with some cams and nuts. Good rock climbing skills, routefinding skills and experience with nuts and friends are required for all routes on the mountain.
From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. Stop about 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).
After passing through the Tiefenbach houses, park at a bridge over a stream (signposted for Siedelen Hutte). The first part takes place on the path that goes up to the Siedelenhutte; after passing the shelter, we continue, at first for debris, and then for the Siedelen glacier towards the wall. Keeping to the left side of the river you reach the base of the Gross Bielenhorn.
First ascent: J. Marmet & G. Styger 1949
IV+, V or A0, 4h.
First ascent: A. & O. Amstand & G. Masetto 1935
III-IV, few ropelenghts V, 5-6h.
First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & A. Schelbert, 1968
SW-Wall Variante I
VI-, A1/VI, 5-6h.
First ascent: N. Baumann & Müller, 1964
SW-Wall Variante II
First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & M. Niedermann, 1956
A very fine, difficult (VI-A2) rock climb of about 300m drop (14 pitches) starting in a superficial dihedral 20m to the left of a wide dihedral/channel.
IV-V+, A2, 4-5h.
First ascent: Nedela, Niedermann & Tischhauser, 1972
SW-Wall of the NW-Summitridge
V-V+, A1, 4-5h.
First ascent: P. Casanella & Zembrowski, 1974
None at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from november till may.
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.
Best time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.
Realp Camping (1510m):
Open in from June to September.
Schweiz Plaisir West, J. von Känel, ISBN 3906087069
Clubführer Urner Alpen 2, T. Fullin & A. Bahnhölzer, ISBN 3859022229
Urseren Blatt 1231