Grossglockner Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 86

mooliczek - Jun 16, 2010 9:23 am Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2011

Three times  Sucess!

Stuedlgrat - April 2011
Perfect weather, good conditions, some snow and ice on the west side of the ridge. Met few people on the route, no crowds in fact.
Pleasant climbing, summited in beautiful scenery around us.
Climbed with Igi.
Photo gallery - here.

Normal route from Kals - February 2011
Good weather (strong wind but good visilibity at last!). Good snow conditions, however at lower parts of the route we would've died for skies - snow was heavy...Overall - we managed and it was fun.
Climbed with Igi, Matti and Jacek 'Zjawa'.
Photo gallery from the trip - here

Normal route from Kals - January 2011
We managed to get to EJH huette. Retreat because of heavy conditions (zero visibility, strong wind and ... lack of time - no more waiting was possible).
Attempt undertaken with Igi.

Normal route via Hofmannskees - June 2009
Took the route from Franz-Josefs-Hoehe, down to Pasterze glacier and all along Hofmannkees, to finally get to Erzherzog-Johan-Hutte. Climbed to the summit the following day in snow conditions (suprisingly, the whole summit looked like in mid-winter, no solid and clear rock visible). Went down to Kals in nasty circumstances (my partner got snow-blind). But overall - great trip!
Climbed with Igi The Brave :)

Buthrakaur - Mar 26, 2010 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2007

normal route  Sucess!

We had perfect weather and there were very few people around - peerfect conditions for climb. Hope I'll try Pallavicini Rinne this year.


fubar7500 - Mar 1, 2010 4:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2009

Top of Austria  Sucess!

Short sleep in tent next to Studlhutte. Clear blue sky, sunny and windy in the morning. Amazing summit!


project360 - Oct 14, 2009 11:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2009

Highest point in Austria  Sucess!

Beautiful climb to start the European adventure... Highest point in Austria

Martina Marmoška - Aug 4, 2009 5:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Normal route  Sucess!

We went by Normal route, during the way on the glacier was storm and hailing but on the summit part from Erz.Johann Hütte we were luxury weather. Very nice.


Ivona - Jun 2, 2009 6:36 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2009

2 times-normal route  Sucess!

First time 1st of May 2007- unsuccesfull attempt

Second time a few days ago;)) 26th of May 2009 with great company of my climbing friend Natalia and Radek(Brade).Beautiful mountain worth of coming back...


WouterB - May 25, 2009 6:34 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2009

Grossglockner Normal route  Sucess!

21st of may up to Stuedlhutte
22nd of may with snowshoes to Stuedlgrat (climbed it without the intention to go high, and without rope up untill the yellow bench).
23rd of may from Stuedlhutte in about 3 hours to the summit. We didn't pass Erzhog Johan, but chose to climb the gletsjer up intill it's highest point.


Luciano136 - Jun 1, 2009 2:50 pm

Re: Grossglockner Normal route

So where are the pics?? :)


WouterB - Jun 2, 2009 4:13 am

Re: Grossglockner Normal route

All my pictures can be found here:


flow - May 17, 2009 5:50 pm Date Climbed: May 17, 2009

Großglockner, 3.798m  Sucess!

16th May from Lucknerhaus 1.918m to Stüdelhütte 2.802m
17th May Stüdelhütte - Großglockner 3.798m - Hoffmannskees - Franz-Josefs-Hoehe 2.369m.

1st try last year at about the same time. Made the trip "once around Glockner" (Oberwalderhut-Teufelskampkees-Luisenscharte-Adlersruhe), but had to go down from Adlersruhe at 12.15h because of very bad weather (fog).


MackoS - Feb 24, 2009 12:14 pm

Normal route  Sucess!



saman - Nov 24, 2008 7:51 am

three times, but long ago  Sucess!

This peak was my first "Dreitausender". First I reached its summit on the summer of 1993 in the company of one of my brothers, my father and a friend. We slept in the old Stüdl Hütte (that time the ugly new wasn't there yet:), and ascended from the normal route.

One year later I was there again with another team, but that time we had a storm after Adlersruhe, so we turned back.
I managed to reach the summit twice more (1997, 1999), each time on a one-day trip from Lucknerhaus, with different people. (My father and me became a sort of guides to this mountain for the citizens of our little town:)

Once we made it in heavy snowfall, but this was the only time when the summit ridge wasn't crowded and noone tried to step on our rope with crampoons. And just at the moment we reaced the top, the clouds opened for a while and we had a wanderful view to the Ködnitz valley.


bergnasenbaer - Sep 20, 2008 12:30 pm

in the beginning  Sucess!

via normal route


Herb - Sep 1, 2008 7:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008

From Glocknerhaus via Salm hut to Erzherzog-Johann hut and summit (normal route, PD)  Sucess!

After climbing already many mountains in the Alps and also a few in the Andes and in the Caucasus, I finally managed to climb Grossglockner (3.798 m), the highest mountain in my home country, Austria. This is the mountain you can see in the background of my user profile picture since I am an SP-member... ;o)

I feel lucky, because it worked out in the first attempt! If you read this summit log or several trip reports, you will find out, that Grossglockner very often needs at least 2 to 3 attempts... (I know a lot of people where this applies, too. And as well for my girlfriend it was the 2nd attempt - she tried already once 14 years ago).
We had great conditions and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise during our summit ascent via Glocknerleitl (the steep glacier part before the rocky summit begins at the shoulder) and Kleinglockner after sleeping in the Erzherzog Johann hut. Less crowded than expected (because weather forecast was good and stable for the whole week).


martin184 - Aug 20, 2008 7:34 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008

Foggy climb  Sucess!

Climbed via the normal route from Lucknerhutte and Johann Hutte. A great ascent, even though we were a little unlucky with the weather. The forecast was great (sun, no clouds), but actually the day was very foggy with visibility about 30 meters. The mountain was very crowded which is a pity. We planned the trip so we climb the mountain on Monday to avoid the crowds, but we did not realize that there was a national holiday in Austria.


Dziku - May 26, 2008 2:08 am Date Climbed: Nov 2, 2007

Rute climbed: via Studlhutte, Erzherzog Johann Hutte  Sucess!

Great conditions, beautiful views! Only me and my friends on the top. Unique trip for me.


morceaux - May 15, 2008 1:53 am Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2008

Großglockner - me 2:0

Another failure due to frostbite on my friend's toes. Turned around just below summit ridge, on the normal route through Adlersruhe.
Quite sad, because we had perfect weather, just very cold and a little windy. My friend's toes had been recovered, though he lost his nails.


Troll - Apr 30, 2008 4:45 am Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2008

Skitouring - normal route  Sucess!

Climbed via Studl Hutte in 2 beautiful days. On summit day there was clear sky, no wind. We were on the top just in shirt.


Modi - Mar 2, 2008 7:27 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1993

Normal Route  Sucess!

With Cesare from Erzherzog Johan Hutte with a lot of snow and with the company of a group of american soldiers.


morceaux - Oct 10, 2007 3:22 am Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007

Großglockner - me 1:0

We decided to climb Großglockner on a beautiful clear February weekend. When arrived to Kals, and began the tour up to Stüdlhütte, the weather was so fine that we could walk in just T-shirts (!).
We met with only a few skiers, nobody in the hut. We made fire and brew water all afternoon and evening. By the night temperature fell quickly, and soon there was -18 - -20°C outside.
We started to climb the normal route in the early morning. Everything was fine, except for the freezing cold. On Ködnitzkees only a small breeze went through. After sunrise we reached the ridge leading to the Erzherzog-Johann hütte. Here two of my friends turned around due to cold. We continued. As we got higher, wind was started to blow, and getting stronger. When we reached Erzherzog-Johann hütte, wind was fierce and the summit was totally covered by quickly roaring clouds. At this point we decided not to risk and turned around.
When we arrived back to Stüdlhütte, it began to snow.
Next time... This winter, via Pallavicinirinne.

Viewing: 1-20 of 86
Return to 'Grossglockner' main page