The route was crowded, especially on the final ridge. Ropes got tangled quite often. It was cloudy most of the time but the wind was not particularly strong. We had to take the route through Salmhuette because the upper glacier was in pretty bad condition, with lots of open crevasses.
Great climbing, we reach the summit on sunset and avert so the big wave of mountaineers in the morning. Great snow-conditions despite the heavy rainfall in austria these days with the big flood in Aug05.
Very good climbing, we reach the peak from the hut in three hours, not bad. Stuedelhutte is graet and the food excellent!
Start at 7 a.m. after the night in Stuedlhuette. Over Koednitz Kees to Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. Then a little break and walk up to the summit. On the suumit at about 5 p.m., later overgnight in Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. On the day of ascent a really lovely waether up to sunset. During the descent on May 21st fog, clouds, later snow and rain.
With good conditions I climbed with Carly and Bart the Berglerinne. On the ridge the conditions were hard! Much snow, so that took us a lot of time. A great climb!
Been on the top four times. Had also two unsuccesfull attempts.
Normal- 24 September 2012
T-storm around EJH. Bad weather made the summit ridge not really crowded. Glocknerleitl filled with mud... No views from the top.
Gröger-Rinne- 14 October 2010
Radek (brade) and me finally climbed the route in perfect weather. Some icy and rocky passages in the couloir itself, good snow conditions on the traverse. Topped out following the North-West ridge: snow cover made some passages a little bit more exciting. Generally: more difficult than Stuedlgrat, worth recommendation.
Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me reached to Glockner Bivak after 7 hours of climbing. Deep snow, no traces, crevasses. Spent two nights in the bivak with some tries to reach to base of the couloir. Descended to FJH in snowstorm on saturday morning.
Normal from Stuedl Hut (ski route)- 4 May 2008
Climbed the route solo, following the skiers. Tiring because of melted snow /much easier with skies/. Suprisingly good conditions on the summit ridge: didn't use the rope I had in my backpack, only crampones and two ice axes.
Gröger-Rinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m. Later that day I got down and climbed the normal route.
Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Radek (brade). Fantastic route, solid rock, good snow conditions. Very overcrowded- about 50 people climbing the ridge, many parties shouldn't be there. Guides take people who even don't know how to use a rope- horrible (if they are above you try to overcome them as fast as possible!). Spent much time waiting. Very bad snow conditions in Glocknerteil (muddy- never been so filthy), to many people- very dangerous!
Overall- superb but the crowds kill the fun of climbing.
Hoffmansweg- 12 August 2005
We left Hoffmanhutte about midday and in the afternoon reached Erzherzog Johann Hutte and there spent a night in tent-it's forbidden but we climbed a little above the hut and there it was no problem. After snowy and cold night we reached the summit about 9 am in great weather. Summit ridge was very crowded- spent much time waiting. Descending the same route.
I climbed the peak with one of my friend from Kals in two days. Due to bad weather and my aching knee we tented on the glacier below the Erherzog Johannes Hütte and on the next day we reached the peak. It is a beautiful route and mountain so I can recommend it to everyone :)
One of the most interesting climbs I ever made - valley glacier, steep ascending on morrain, glacier again, some snow, few beers in at Erzherzog-Johann hutte, some nice and easy climbing and there we were :-))
Beautiful weather, picturesque views from the top.
Descending via Leitertal - long, tiring but beautiful.
The only negative experience - austrian guides rushing unexperienced and tired hikers near the summit along our group with stupid comments (to us), traffic jams near the summit.
Good climb, soft snow on the decent.
Very nice route, when there are not to many people in it. Descending the normal route is terrible, its busier then the traffic around Munich at 8.00 o'clock!!!!!
Climbed Glockner while doing national service
This was my 2nd peak.
Started climb round 7am from Studlhutte. Reached Adlersruhe in 1,5 hours over Kodnitzkees. From there in 2 hours to the summit. Wasn't as crowded as expected, but still some delay at Glocknerscharte. Unfortunately summit was misty, so no great view from Austria's highest. Wasn't lucky that week, while on Grossvenediger no sign of Glockner and now vice versa. Back in ErzHerzogJohanhutte round midday. Stayed there overnight, to walk back to Lucknerhaus next day. About 5cm snow during night, nice for photos.
Route: Departing at Lucknerhaus (1918m) at 6:00, reaching summit (3798m) at around 13:00, staying 45min, returning to Lucknerhaus parking lot at around 20:00.
After trying to summit Grossglockner solo and in a single day in October 2002, where I turned around 40 m below Kleinglockner I achieved the goal one year later in the great summer of 2003. After reaching the summit I was there for about 15 minutes totally by myself with perfect blue sky before the next crowds moved in. During the descent on the ridge below Adlersruhe there was a thunderstorm passing through. Because of many roped parties moving slowly, descending fast was impossible. Nevertheless I returned safely after having had a great day.
Very nice climb. Weather was a little bit cloudy during the ascent but when we reached the summit it cleared. We climbed via Stüddlehütte. Quite easy and enjoyable climb!
Nice beautiful and easy climb, but to many people.
Togather with Farmer sr. we climbed the crowdy normal route. Not difficult (when not icy) watch the descend tricky 35 degr. ice.... Dont fall here, you might end up on the Pasterze..
nice climb after a very (!!) cold night in a snow bivouac.
very nice climb until reaching the normal route - from that point on: very crowded!! we did quit at Kleinglockner - descent via Salmhütte