Grosshorn (Lauterbrunner)

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe
Elevation:
12316 ft / 3754 m
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Page By:
om
Grosshorn (Lauterbrunner)
Created On: Nov 28, 2002
Last Edited On: Oct 21, 2005

Overview


Lauterbrunner Grosshorn is situated on the high ridge from Jungfrau to Breithorn. You can find those main summits on that chain:

- Jungfrau (4158m)
- Rottalhorn (3969 m)
- Lauihorn (3779 m)
- Gletscherhorn (3983m)
- Ebenefluh (3960m)
- Mittaghorn (3897m)
- Grosshorn (3754m)
- Breithorn (3785)

Grosshorn is more known for it's difficult north face on the Lauterbrunnen side than for the most classic route accessible from the Lötschen valley side.

Some pictures of the classic route


Getting There


Access from Lötschental side, the approach is to climb to Annen Hut


Access from Lauterbrunnen side : with the BOB or WAB train line as far as Lauterbrunnen, then postal bus to Stechelberg.
the approach is to climb to Schmadri hut (2262m)

Maps: LK 1: 25,000, Blatt 1248 Mürren
LK 1: 50,000, Blatt Berner Oberland

Routes overview


North-West ridge:
Difficult mixed ridge ascend.
Possible to climb the west summit (3671m) or to continu to main summit (3754m and main difficulties)
D+
1500 Hm including 1250 Hm on the ridge, 6 to 8 h and 1h30 to the main summit.
when stopping to the west summit, descend to Schmadrijoch on the SW ridge to Gletscherstafel (3h).
When continuing to the main summit, descend on the normal route on the S ridge to Gletscherstafel (3h)
Rock route (and snow between rock sectors) III, IV and V max.
Start point is Schmadri hut (2262m)

North face:
One of the most difficult ascend in Berner Oberland
TD+
1500 Hm including 1200 Hm in the face, 10 to 15 h with good conditions
Ice route, 53° average slope, 60° max
Start point is Schmadri hut (2262m)

1st ascend


North-West ridge:
H. Lauper and M. Liniger july-26-1921

North face:
W. Welzenbach, E.Schulze, A. Drexel and A. Rudy july 25,26 1932

Red Tape


Parking fees in Stechelberg, at the end of Lauterbrunnen valley.

Protection Ordinance of the Back Lauterbrunnen Valley:

After a governmentally advised decision on the 21st of June, 1960, most of the Back Lauterbrunnen Valley was placed officially under protection. According to the protection ordinance, it is absolutely forbidden to pick any plants. The most important rules are easy to remember:

- Don't go off the trail!
- Take your trash home with you!
- Don't pick the plants!
- Keep your dog on a leash!
- Don't build any fires!
- No camping!

When To Climb


-

Accommodations


Overnight accommodations:

North side:
Hotel Obersteinberg, Hotel Tschingelhorn, the Mutthorn Hut (SAC), the Schmadri Hut (AACB), two campgrounds in Stechelberg.

Mountain Conditions


Grindelwald: Accommodation, Weather and Snow reports, Webcam, U-Name-It ...
Bergsteigerzentrum Grindelwald: Montaineers Info: Phone Numbers, Website, etc.
Basislager.ch: Log of previous attempts, including description of ice conditions (German !)

I took these links on Ebenefluh page. Thank you Ulrich.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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dmiki

dmiki - Aug 27, 2004 6:50 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

The "difficult north face" link doesn't provide useful info (any more).

dmiki

dmiki - Aug 27, 2004 6:58 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Maybe add a map of the Jungfrau region?


Viewing: 1-2 of 2