Guye Peak is one of the most popular mountains in the Washington Cascades to climb in the winter. It is located in the heart of Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest, near Snoqualmie Pass. The easy access from the Mount Snoqualmie ski resort means zero approach and all technical alpine climbing. The mountain rises a mere 2,000 feet above the Mount Snoqualmie ski resort and offers many good summer and winter routes that can be climbed in half a day. This mountain has offered a good introduction to winter mountaineering for many climbers in the Seattle area.
It is also climbed quite a bit in the summer. There are many moderate alpine rock routes, which are good for beginners.
The mountain was named after F.M. Guye after he and his friends patented 12 mining claims around 1882 on the slopes.
Take I-90 from Seattle east to Snoqualmie Pass (30 - 45 minutes). Exit at Alpental Road and park at the Snoqualmie Ski Area, or use other public parking nearby.
The South Gulley route is quite popular in the winter offering moderate snow climbing to 50 degrees and a direct approach.
The South Rib is climbed in the summer and winter. In the summer it is a moderate route with a pitch of class 5.6. Read this route for more details. The winter brings some routefinding difficulty and mixed climbing.
North Ridge - Take the Cave Ridge Trail from the Alpental parking lot (3,080 feet) to the Cave Ridge saddle (4,600 feet) in about 1.5 miles. Take the trail from there up to Guye's north summit. A bootpath leads 60 feet down the brushy gully left of the north summit. Cross right (southwest) into the next gully over (the one behind the north summit) and climb it (mossy and dirty class 3 / 4 slabs) to the middle-north notch. Climb over the middle summit then continue along the nice trail to the top of the south summit. A rappel is recommended for the return for the gully between the middle and north summits. A 30 meter rope is sufficient. A hand-line rappel would probably also work.
The East Gulley offers moderate snow climbing with a few technical steps.
The steep west face is climbed in the summer only. It offers several moderate to difficult alpine rock routes.
Be very cautious of snow conditions, Avalanches are common during bad conditions on this mountain. Read the NWAC Avalanche Forecast before you attempt to climb it.
There are no permits, fees, closures, limitations or parking passes required to climb Guye Peak.
Be advised that the resort blasts to clear avalanche prone slopes during the day. Contact them at 425-434-7669 to find out if they will be blasting.
When To Climb
It is climbed all year round. There are many winter ascents every year. January through April have the best winter conditions, and June through October have the best summer climbing.
Lodging in the Area
Guye Peak Resort is a popular place to stay if spending the night in the area. There are many ski lodges around Mount Snoqualmie to choose from.