Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 47.44200°N / 121.408°W
Additional Information Elevation: 5168 ft / 1575 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Guye Peak is one of the most popular mountains in the Washington Cascades to climb in the winter. It is located in the heart of Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest, near Snoqualmie Pass. The easy access from the Mount Snoqualmie ski resort means zero approach and all technical alpine climbing. The mountain rises a mere 2,000 feet above the Mount Snoqualmie ski resort and offers many good summer and winter routes that can be climbed in half a day. This mountain has offered a good introduction to winter mountaineering for many climbers in the Seattle area.

It is also climbed quite a bit in the summer. There are many moderate alpine rock routes, which are good for beginners.

The mountain was named after F.M. Guye after he and his friends patented 12 mining claims around 1882 on the slopes.

Getting There

Take I-90 from Seattle east to Snoqualmie Pass (30 - 45 minutes). Exit at Alpental Road and park at the Snoqualmie Ski Area, or use other public parking nearby.

Climbing Information

The South Gulley route is quite popular in the winter offering moderate snow climbing to 50 degrees and a direct approach.

The South Rib is climbed in the summer and winter. In the summer it is a moderate route with a pitch of class 5.6. Read this route for more details. The winter brings some routefinding difficulty and mixed climbing.

North Ridge - Take the Cave Ridge Trail from the Alpental parking lot (3,080 feet) to the Cave Ridge saddle (4,600 feet) in about 1.5 miles. Take the trail from there up to Guye's north summit. A bootpath leads 60 feet down the brushy gully left of the north summit. Cross right (southwest) into the next gully over (the one behind the north summit) and climb it (mossy and dirty class 3 / 4 slabs) to the middle-north notch. Climb over the middle summit then continue along the nice trail to the top of the south summit. A rappel is recommended for the return for the gully between the middle and north summits. A 30 meter rope is sufficient. A hand-line rappel would probably also work.

The East Gulley offers moderate snow climbing with a few technical steps.

The steep west face is climbed in the summer only. It offers several moderate to difficult alpine rock routes.

Be very cautious of snow conditions, Avalanches are common during bad conditions on this mountain. Read the NWAC Avalanche Forecast before you attempt to climb it.

Red Tape

There are no permits, fees, closures, limitations or parking passes required to climb Guye Peak.

Be advised that the resort blasts to clear avalanche prone slopes during the day. Contact them at 425-434-7669 to find out if they will be blasting.

When To Climb

It is climbed all year round. There are many winter ascents every year. January through April have the best winter conditions, and June through October have the best summer climbing.

Lodging in the Area

Guye Peak Resort is a popular place to stay if spending the night in the area. There are many ski lodges around Mount Snoqualmie to choose from.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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scottv - Jan 13, 2008 2:07 am - Hasn't voted

Very minor typo

Thanks for a nice page. I've just joined the WAC cabin below Guye and excited to file some trip reports this winter and beyond. I found a tiny typo: "bbot" instead of "boot" Cheers, Scott

alpinecrags - Jun 1, 2015 12:25 am - Voted 7/10


While hiking back to the car (which we parked at a dead end on one of the residential streets) after climbing the Improbable Traverse, I spoke to a guy who said the homeowners association fines the homeowners if a car is found parked in front of a house, and generally homeowners call a tow truck for your car. It was also brought to our attention that if you park on the side of the road, the snow plows come through and tow your car from there too. The solution to this is to park in the gravel area before the residential streets. Just FYI!

Viewing: 1-2 of 2



Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.