A beautiful clear cool morning starting at 4 and back to Hornli by 11:30. Great memories with my good friend Peter H and his son Jamie.
Solo climb in good conditions. Nice mix of rock and snow climbing, beautiful weather, gorgeous views - classic route!
This was a long time ago! I recall it being a long day, but with rewarding views from the top.
The weekend before from the images of webcams in Zermatt and environs we could notice that in the area the weather is horrible. So on Tuesday when we got there, we were very glad to meet so fine conditions...the weather forecast said favorable weather for climbing for the following days too. The next three days we had to notice that the dense fog and snow-storm is also favorable for climbing...
We think, that we had to return at the last fixed rope, so we were some ten meters from the summit. Our clock said "Guys, it's time to start your way down". For the rope was so icy that we could not take a grip on it, very sad we start to descend...
Very heavy snowfall the previous day allowed Pete & I (plus 2 New Zealanders, Chris & Kat) to be the only climbers above the Solvey Hut and on the summit. It also made for slow going and a forced bivy.
Combined with a climb of Mont Blanc, it was an excellent adventure for two inexperienced rock climbers in way over their heads.
Good conditions. We started very late and were a bit slow descending. While descending a party below us lost their track and was picked up by helicopter in the beginning darkness. So we better bivied somewhere at 3600m. There are some ridiculous yet perfect stone markers in the lower part of the route that can direct you down into a steep couloir when descending (old route ?). Don't let them fool you and stay on the ridge.
Perfect conditions, very crowded, waived to a helicopter circling the summit, saw three swiss military jets dive into the valley below on their backs. Capped off a wonderful summer many years ago. Climbed with best friend John Nelson. (approximate date)
A great climb, Matterhorn was in a good mood this day and we had no problem reaching the summit.
With SP Member Radek (brade) we climbed to Solvay and stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down- it took us 11 hours to Hornlihutte!Definitely to risky.
Waiting for the third chance.
Trip Report here
Despite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
All details and photos are in our Trip Report:
Matterhorn in Winter Tastes Bittersweet