Solo climb in good conditions. Nice mix of rock and snow climbing, beautiful weather, gorgeous views - classic route!
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 2:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 1981
One of the great classic routes
This was a long time ago! I recall it being a long day, but with rewarding views from the top.
yxygan - Jun 28, 2010 8:04 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
Almost done
The weekend before from the images of webcams in Zermatt and environs we could notice that in the area the weather is horrible. So on Tuesday when we got there, we were very glad to meet so fine conditions...the weather forecast said favorable weather for climbing for the following days too. The next three days we had to notice that the dense fog and snow-storm is also favorable for climbing...
We think, that we had to return at the last fixed rope, so we were some ten meters from the summit. Our clock said "Guys, it's time to start your way down". For the rope was so icy that we could not take a grip on it, very sad we start to descend...
peakmind - Dec 23, 2008 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 1994
Joe & Pete's Excellent Adventure
Very heavy snowfall the previous day allowed Pete & I (plus 2 New Zealanders, Chris & Kat) to be the only climbers above the Solvey Hut and on the summit. It also made for slow going and a forced bivy.
Combined with a climb of Mont Blanc, it was an excellent adventure for two inexperienced rock climbers in way over their heads.
Good conditions. We started very late and were a bit slow descending. While descending a party below us lost their track and was picked up by helicopter in the beginning darkness. So we better bivied somewhere at 3600m. There are some ridiculous yet perfect stone markers in the lower part of the route that can direct you down into a steep couloir when descending (old route ?). Don't let them fool you and stay on the ridge.
Perfect conditions, very crowded, waived to a helicopter circling the summit, saw three swiss military jets dive into the valley below on their backs. Capped off a wonderful summer many years ago. Climbed with best friend John Nelson. (approximate date)
Kaallin Krimp - Aug 27, 2007 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
Perfect
A great climb, Matterhorn was in a good mood this day and we had no problem reaching the summit.
With SP Member Radek (brade) we climbed to Solvay and stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down- it took us 11 hours to Hornlihutte!Definitely to risky.
Waiting for the third chance.
J Fox - Jun 28, 2007 11:02 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2004
Sunny climb in September
Despite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
brade - Mar 27, 2007 6:36 am Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2006
punj89 - Oct 10, 2019 12:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2018
Solo Hornli 2018https://grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-matterhorn.html
rdesota - Sep 29, 2018 12:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2018
Beautiful Climb!A beautiful clear cool morning starting at 4 and back to Hornli by 11:30. Great memories with my good friend Peter H and his son Jamie.
strudolyubov - Sep 3, 2016 4:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2016
Classic RouteSolo climb in good conditions. Nice mix of rock and snow climbing, beautiful weather, gorgeous views - classic route!
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 2:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 1981
One of the great classic routesThis was a long time ago! I recall it being a long day, but with rewarding views from the top.
yxygan - Jun 28, 2010 8:04 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
Almost doneThe weekend before from the images of webcams in Zermatt and environs we could notice that in the area the weather is horrible. So on Tuesday when we got there, we were very glad to meet so fine conditions...the weather forecast said favorable weather for climbing for the following days too. The next three days we had to notice that the dense fog and snow-storm is also favorable for climbing...
We think, that we had to return at the last fixed rope, so we were some ten meters from the summit. Our clock said "Guys, it's time to start your way down". For the rope was so icy that we could not take a grip on it, very sad we start to descend...
peakmind - Dec 23, 2008 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 1994
Joe & Pete's Excellent AdventureVery heavy snowfall the previous day allowed Pete & I (plus 2 New Zealanders, Chris & Kat) to be the only climbers above the Solvey Hut and on the summit. It also made for slow going and a forced bivy.
Combined with a climb of Mont Blanc, it was an excellent adventure for two inexperienced rock climbers in way over their heads.
http://peakmind.wordpress.com
PeterCorneliusSpaeth - Aug 31, 2008 11:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008
Hoernli bivied :-(Good conditions. We started very late and were a bit slow descending. While descending a party below us lost their track and was picked up by helicopter in the beginning darkness. So we better bivied somewhere at 3600m. There are some ridiculous yet perfect stone markers in the lower part of the route that can direct you down into a steep couloir when descending (old route ?). Don't let them fool you and stay on the ridge.
Faster - Apr 26, 2008 7:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 1983
Perfect conditionsPerfect conditions, very crowded, waived to a helicopter circling the summit, saw three swiss military jets dive into the valley below on their backs. Capped off a wonderful summer many years ago. Climbed with best friend John Nelson. (approximate date)
Kaallin Krimp - Aug 27, 2007 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
PerfectA great climb, Matterhorn was in a good mood this day and we had no problem reaching the summit.
jck - Aug 22, 2007 6:33 am
Winter attemptWith SP Member Radek (brade) we climbed to Solvay and stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down- it took us 11 hours to Hornlihutte!Definitely to risky.
Waiting for the third chance.
Trip Report here
J Fox - Jun 28, 2007 11:02 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2004
Sunny climb in SeptemberDespite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
brade - Mar 27, 2007 6:36 am Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2006
WinterAll details and photos are in our Trip Report:
Matterhorn in Winter Tastes Bittersweet