Hannibalturm

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Uri, Switzerland, Europe
Activities:
Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
9455 ft / 2882 m
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Hannibalturm
Created On: Nov 1, 2011
Last Edited On: Mar 8, 2012

Overview

HannibankSummit bench

The Hannibalturm is a small rock tower that essentially belongs to the Galenstock. The rock tower is a small multi-pitch crag in the Urner Alps in central Switzerland. You can only reach the summit by climbing, not by hiking/scrambling. Most routes have been opened and or rebolted by Jurg von Kanel and crew, the writer of the Schweiz Plaisir guide books. Apart from the Hannibalturm there are many other excellent multi pitch routes and crags close by on the Klein- and Gross-Furkahorn, Bielenhorn and Grauewand. The Hannibalturm is renowned for the easiest access and the shortest climbs. The climbs are of moderate to serious difficulty however.

The Hannibalturm offers excellent granit climbs of approx. 200m. The grannit is bombproof, the same can be said about the bolts and belay stations. The climbing involves a little bit of everything: slabs, roofs, dihidrals, cracks, flakes, you name it. The crag is south facing. As a result the crag is accessible early in the season and you can climb in the sun for most of the day.
Elefantenrussel, pitch 4Elefantenrussel, pitch 4

Getting There

Hannibal TurmHannibalturm from the west

By car you can reach the Furkapass, 2431m. From the west you can either travel from Brig (Wallis) or from Meiringen (Berner Oberland) to Gletsch and from there the the pass. From the east you travel from Andermatt to the pass. Always check if the Furka pass is open or closed.

Once you have reached the Furkapass/Furka Blick you start behind the houses. You walk to the north on the trail to the Sidelenhut 2708m. After 1 hour you go left, leaving the trail to the hut. You cross scree fields and descend a little to reach the Sidelen Glacier (coverded in scree). You cross the glacier at an altitude of approx. 2650-2700m to reach the base of the Hannibalturm from the right. Just before you reach the base some cravesses are present, but passing them should not be a problem. All routes start at the base of the tower and are marked by a small picture and name painted on the rock. 1h30' from the pass.
Another option is to stay overnight in the Sidelenhut, reached in 1h15', from there it is 30' down to the base of the tower.

Note that in late spring and early summer the glacier can still be covered in snow so you should bring appropriate gear like crampons and an ice pick.

Swiss map 1:25000: Landes Karte der Schweiz, blatt 1231 "Urseren".

Routes

Hannimoon, 6a+, 5 pitches
Elefantenrussel, 6b, 5 pitches
Conquest of Paradise, 6a+, 6 pitches
Kassestrurtze, 6c, 6 pitches

All routes are 200m. Descent can be done by using the specially equiped abseil-piste that roughly follows Conquest of Paradise (recommended) or by abseiling your ascent route.

HannibalturmHannibalturm from the south


Additional info can be found on the routes pages (if one exists) or in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost and Topoguide Band I guidebooks.

Red Tape

No permits required. You should always check if the Furka pass is open.

Camping

Officially camping is not allowed. However, people often camp near the parking on the pass or they camp at 1/2 hour walk from the pass to the hut. Just make sure your tent is gone in the morning.

External Links

Furka pass access click on "Passe" and search for Furka.
Landes Karte der Schweiz
Sidelenhut
Schweiz Plaisir Ost
Topoguide Band I