Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.43000°N / 13.73000°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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Exposed Ferrata |
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Scenes from the ferrata
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Approach
Either Vrsic pass huts or Tamar hut. See on the front page.
Route Description
Hanzova Pot ferrata 2.30h
As said in Overview section, this is one of sweetest and most attractive ferrata trails in Julian Alps. For those that like rock climbing this is true candy. It is advisable to have a helmet because climbers above you can always release stones. If it would make you feel safer you can even secure your self on fixed ropes. Trail is very exposed using some very narrow shelves in north wall of Mala Mojstrovka, with few hundred meters of nothing but air bellow you. Highly recommended for non-dizzy experienced mountaineers.
From the Vrsic pass path heads north, ascending over scree slopes and through colonies of dwarf pine. In some 30 minutes you reach Vratica pass (1799m). Behind the pass path turns left traversing huge scree slopes bellow the northern cliffs of Nad Sitom Glava (2087m). From here you can notice quite large and steep shelf, with black cliffs above it. That is where path enters the face. In few sharp bends over steep scree you reach the cliffs. Grab pegs and fixed ropes and climb begins. At first is very steep than little bit less. Shelf takes you far to the right and after that it is straighter up, path is following natural pass through the cliffs. On the way there are few beautifully exposed, narrow shelves. In some 1.15h you reach the edge of the face. In front of you is summit of Mala Mojstrovka. After short ascent over scree path reaches the summit ridge and climbs again straight to the top.
FROM TAMAR hut 4h
In front of the hut marks will head you towards the south. After passing by Crna Voda waterfall you enter deep and dark valley. North face of Travnik (2379m) and Velika Mojstrovka (2366m) rises perpendicularly above. Snow lasts long here. Path turns left towards east and follows this valley all the way up to Slatnica pass (1815m).
When you are here don’t miss short ascent to the summit of Slemenova Spica (1909m). Just bellow the summit are 3 small lakes with famous and most beautiful view on Jalovec (2645m) and also gigantic north face of Mojstrovka’s and Travnik.
Behind the pass is large plateau that is strewn by huge boulders, with some larch trees between them. Path continues straight towards Vratica pass (1799m) and Vrsic pass (1611m). Our unmarked, but well visible path turns right, traversing scree slopes and takes you straight to the entrance of Hanzova Pot ferrata, where you join Vrsic pass path. From Tamar hut is 4h to the summit of Mala Mojstrovka.
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Essential Gear
When there is snow everything :-) Ice axe, crampons, ropes, helmet. In summer helmet and ropes (if you wish).
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.