Lots of hiking when done on a tight schedule which becomes the crux, but an amazing formation! Wish I had more time up there... a few days at Iceberg seems to be the way to go.
Outstanding day with Peter V. I led the 5.10c OW pitches. At low elevation or in the desert, these would be 5.10- at most but deserving of the grade at near 14K. I definitely only needed one C4 #4 and did not clip those bolts on the crux pitch (4 goes right there). I also led the 5.10 headwall pitch which is not to be missed. 2nd only to the Red Dihedral and the sustained OW pitch in terms of quality climbing. Two items regarding the top sections. Folks are getting off route right after the 2nd 5.10c OW pitch. Follow the crack in the right wall up and right. In the ST description, Chris has you thinking you should follow a curving chimney up left. Puts you to far to the left which is not a problem, the traverse back right over the arete to go from the gnarly head wall to the much more mellow one was an excellent pitch in and of it self. After the headwall pitch, just keep moving up and right. The topo is misleading here. A few short sections of chimney/wide cracks lead to the summit, constantly moving along ledges to the right. At the start, we used the mid 5th starter pitch to avoid going any further up the snow slope. Makes a lot of sense. No crampons necessary. Warmed up on Mithril and Fishhook for a great few days up at Iceberg.