I downclimbed the Harrington Couloir after going up the Central Couloir and unable to find easier way down. I had no rope with me and the Thompson Ridge looked horrible in 4 inches of fresh snow. This Harrington route looked like much easier descent. The first 200 feet were a bit steep, but the rest was ok. I understand that there might be a rap line set up somewhere in this couloir now.
Climbed with a group of six from SMG (see below). Good consolidated snow made this a fun climb/descent.
Climbed this with a party of six from Sierra Mountaineering Group (SMG) during a mild snow storm in late May. Snow was already consolidated enough for two tool climbing. Fixed pin still on the route about 2/3rd of the way up. Final slope was about 60 degrees but short. All the rest of the couloir was consistent 45 - 50 degrees. Lowered and downclimbed for the descent.
This was my first couloir and first ice lead. Was a great climb, but the talus can seem endless. Climbed w/ Fred Bagni. I led 1st, 3rd, and was going to lead the melted our rock, but we ran out of time. Fred is right about the the approach, stay right and you can avoid half the talus.
That is one hell of a bolder field... Make sure you stay all the way to the right on a use trail... We found it on the way back. Climbed the vertical berg (for fun - about 11') Passable on the right or the left. We simuled the first pitch and pitched out the 3 to the top of the ice. The last half of pitch is melted out. You can climb the rock on the left to the ridge or rappel.
fun climb, good friends, and sunny weather. What more could one ask for?!