He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 36.65580°N / 118.8656°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
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Getting There

Follow Directions from the main page to access all climbs on Crystal Wall.

Route Description

He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes is located between Placebo, on the right, and Pop a Top, on the left. You will know it's the right climb by the very visible, closely space three first bolts that protect the steep and thin opening crux moves. It is a slabby start but very well protected. Once above the third bolt it climbs straight up about 40 feet, passing another bolt, to an almost vertical section of the wall. It is possible to plug small gear (#3 metolious or equivalent) in a flake to the left just below the vertical section but bring about a 5 foot runner to reduce rope drag. The vertical section is steep but juggy with the moves being no harder than 5.7, 5.8ish. After the initial moves over the vertical section clip the fifth and last bolt and the climbing becomes less steep to a two bolt anchor with rap rings. There is a spot for a small cam about halfway between the last bolt and the anchors if you so desire. It is possible to continue up over low fifth class unprotected slab to top out and walk off, or (my favorite) bring another rope and rap off making for an easier more time efficient way off.

Gear Needed

5 quick draws
a few small cams w/ runners
gear for an anchor with two bolts
an extra rope if you plan to rap off



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