Heavens Peak Climber's Log

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GlacierCountry

GlacierCountry - Aug 26, 2016 12:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2016

Schwack from Hell  Sucess!

Miserable bushwhack to start. Summit block slab is steeper than it looks! Gorgeous weather on the summit. Horrible groppel and rain storm on the way down. Took 11 hours due to weather and being forced around the flooded creek. Went with Jen Hawes and Lara Middlemas. Glad that one is done. Would do Arrow Lake route next time instead.

geoinmt - Sep 11, 2015 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2015

east face  Sucess!

Climbed with the Rocky Mountaineers. Moderately smoky. Very pleasant climb with good company. Fred's route description was very good. The couloir leading to the ridge starts at the top of the highest scree cone at the base of the ridge cliffs. The slabs make this one of the coolest peaks in Glacier I have climbed.

ndirish365

ndirish365 - Sep 8, 2015 9:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015

Great Day  Sucess!

Long Day on Climb Glacier National Park's Route. Slippery upper section was sketchy. Bushwack on way down was much worse then it could have been. 12 hours, rained at the end. Smoke was not too bad, but clouds were low. Creek crossing was easy. Incredible!

ssheriff

ssheriff - Aug 11, 2014 4:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014

Heavens Peak East Face route

Creeks were high this year and it took a bit to find a safe creek crossing at 4,400' and it was even trickier to find it on the descent back through the alders, devils club, etc. Above that brushy zone it is all quite nice with easy travel. However, there was about five meters of sketchy, slick slab just before the summit. Many would like a rope the way we went which was tight against the final summit cliffs. Beware the snow slabs while on the rock slabs, a bunch (~300 m^3) came off while we were on route. If you were inclined to haul a bivy bag to the moraine at 7,000' you'd have a great camp and easy summit day (there are lower bivys as well). GPS says about 5,700' vertical in 6 miles roundtrip.

GlacierDan

GlacierDan - Apr 16, 2013 1:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2010

Heavens Peak  Sucess!

Climbed up the South Face straight up the center and cut to the ridge just above the snowfield just SW below the summit. Altered slightly from the south ridge route, except straight up the central face. Nothing worse than class 3 and no bushwacking. Check out route description and photos added.

awhite28

awhite28 - Dec 17, 2012 8:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012

Heavens Peak

Climbed from Arrow. Check out my new route description!

FlatheadJim

FlatheadJim - May 22, 2011 12:46 pm

Heaven's Peak  Sucess!

Climbed in 2002 & 2007

pyerger

pyerger - Jun 17, 2009 12:00 pm

Heavens  Sucess!

Climbed a few times, one of my favorites in the park.

bfrench

bfrench - Apr 27, 2009 11:45 pm

Heavens  Sucess!

Climbed a few times. Once via Stanton, Vaught, McPartland.

urnotreal

urnotreal - Aug 18, 2008 7:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2001

east ridge  Sucess!

with jeff fox. parked at "avalanche chutes" exhibit, forded creek, and followed a drainage up to the ridge. saved a lot of bushwacking this way. didn't bring axes and had to use sharp rocks to get up the last snowfield. about 3/4 of the way up we got passed by an over the hill gang member soloing. turns out he started about 2 hours after us!

FlatheadNative

FlatheadNative - Mar 5, 2008 1:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2004

Heaven's Peak Achieved  Sucess!

Climbed with variation of Fred's South Ridge route. Upon reaching snow fields below West face of Heaven's then achieved North slope and then walked up incredible sloping parking lot sized slabs of rock.

jimegan

jimegan - Feb 6, 2008 1:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1995

HEAVEN'S PK  Sucess!

CLIMBED WITH LARRY SANDEFUR AND VERN INGRAHAM AND ? FOLEY VIA THE E END OF THE GLACIER WALL WITH TREMENDOUS BUSHWHACK

8/23/98 E FACE ROUTE GMS HIKE - ONE OF MY FAVORITE SAMPLERS OF GNP MOUNTAINEERING

9/16/99 E FACE ROUTE WITH SEVERAL AMBITIOUS OTHG MEMBERS

8/16/2001 E FACE ROUTE AGAIN TO SHOW ED FORKOS OF LAS VEGAS AND RON AND VERN OF WHITEFISH, MT

burningthebushes

burningthebushes - Jan 6, 2008 5:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2007

NW Ridge  Sucess!

This route is hardly a route and 3rd class at best. Up a chute from MacDonald river for about 2000' vert and then bushwhack to the west of the peak then up to the ridge and follow it to the summit. Gorgeous and mostly untouched going this way. Even saw a little brown bear in the chute munching berries.

Moni

Moni - Nov 15, 2003 8:17 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 25, 1979  Sucess!

With Fred - long bushwhack and rainy conditions

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 9:04 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 25 Aug 1979  Sucess!

Climbed with Monica Spicker. We found the going to be more difficult than implied in the climbing guide - perhaps because we did most of it in the rain and fog. 10 hours round trip from the road.

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