Secure fun solo, one of the best in the park. Climb the obvious corner hand crack and when it opens to a cavern, chimney and stem to the top of the formation. Positive climbing with little to no face or slab exposure. Rap Poodles are People Too with a single 60m. Dow
Not sure why Miramontes gave this route a recommendation in his guide. It is just an alternative start to Feltonian Physics and nothing special. There is no longer a fixed piece (2018) as the guide states, but plenty of small pro to a bolt. It is mostly finger layback with positive holds here and there. Not difficult for the grade. Eventually blend into Feltonian. Dow
A fun 5.8 that runs up the next right facing corner to the left of the Dung Fu corner. Quick hand jams up the corner to a large roof. The roof is fun and wide, but there are plenty of features and hand jams. Easier crack to the same gear belay for Overseer. Dow
A parallel crack just to the right of Overseer. You meet up right before the cool hand/finger crack atop the roof above. The start is run out and the first gear you get is definitely off set wires or micro cams. You get one bomber C4#.3, then shitty gear again until the crack opens up to C4#.5-.75. Wires are your best option for the tricky pro. The crux move is after the .3 but before you get the bomber .75. Quite a bit of run out. Slab move of sorts. Full rack to #3. Can rap with an 80m rope on small to medium gear. Can make a 70’ work if you know what you are doing. Dow
rhyang - Nov 15, 2010 9:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010
White Lighting, Dung Fu
Led these classic 5.7's on a clear autumn day. Climbed with Justing. Afternoon shade kept the crowds away :)
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Also followed Poodlesby (5.6) and White Lightning in Nov. 2006.
Cruised White Lightning a couple times, TR'd poodles, and my wife took a nice lead fall from Feltonian Physics, right at the top, she fell on the exit move, top piece failed, and she flew, mostly injury free, all the way down the upper slab. Got plenty of unwanted comments from the throngs below...
lukic - May 2, 2009 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009
Great wall
Great routes on this wall and it sees good shade in the afternoon for those hot days. Nice, lengthy routes too which is a pleasant bonus.
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:19 am
Dung Fu- 120’-5.7*Secure fun solo, one of the best in the park. Climb the obvious corner hand crack and when it opens to a cavern, chimney and stem to the top of the formation. Positive climbing with little to no face or slab exposure. Rap Poodles are People Too with a single 60m. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:18 am
Golden Years- 100’-5.9*Not sure why Miramontes gave this route a recommendation in his guide. It is just an alternative start to Feltonian Physics and nothing special. There is no longer a fixed piece (2018) as the guide states, but plenty of small pro to a bolt. It is mostly finger layback with positive holds here and there. Not difficult for the grade. Eventually blend into Feltonian. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:02 am
Funky Dung- 100’-5.8*A fun 5.8 that runs up the next right facing corner to the left of the Dung Fu corner. Quick hand jams up the corner to a large roof. The roof is fun and wide, but there are plenty of features and hand jams. Easier crack to the same gear belay for Overseer. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:01 am
Overseer Direct- 125’-5.10a***A parallel crack just to the right of Overseer. You meet up right before the cool hand/finger crack atop the roof above. The start is run out and the first gear you get is definitely off set wires or micro cams. You get one bomber C4#.3, then shitty gear again until the crack opens up to C4#.5-.75. Wires are your best option for the tricky pro. The crux move is after the .3 but before you get the bomber .75. Quite a bit of run out. Slab move of sorts. Full rack to #3. Can rap with an 80m rope on small to medium gear. Can make a 70’ work if you know what you are doing. Dow
rhyang - Nov 15, 2010 9:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010
White Lighting, Dung FuLed these classic 5.7's on a clear autumn day. Climbed with Justing. Afternoon shade kept the crowds away :)
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Also followed Poodlesby (5.6) and White Lightning in Nov. 2006.
darinchadwick - Aug 12, 2009 4:01 am
PlaytimeCruised White Lightning a couple times, TR'd poodles, and my wife took a nice lead fall from Feltonian Physics, right at the top, she fell on the exit move, top piece failed, and she flew, mostly injury free, all the way down the upper slab. Got plenty of unwanted comments from the throngs below...
lukic - May 2, 2009 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009
Great wallGreat routes on this wall and it sees good shade in the afternoon for those hot days. Nice, lengthy routes too which is a pleasant bonus.