High on the SW ridge of Jatunmontepuncu

The summit is on the right, but there doesn't appear to be a way. In fact, the biggest problem isn't even visible: I'm standing at the edge of a wide bergschrund.

Eventually, I found a solution. Going left along the ice wall, it got lower and the bergschrund smaller. At the end the bergschrund was no problem anymore, but I was worried that the lower remains of the ice wall might be a cornice, with a dangerous drop on the other side. I didn't dare climbing it, in case it would break. I decided to chop off part of it, so I could see the other side. When I was done, I was very relieved to see that it wasn't a cornice after all! I had no trouble getting to the summit after that.

19 June 2011.


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