Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9

Gain a trail that climbs the left side of the canyon until you reach what they refer to as the “football field”. Basically a large vegetated plateau that is still separated from the south wall by another peak of sorts. Traverse the slick rock to the right of this obstacle and either continue up the gully itself, staying left when possible or if you ate your wheaties, gain the rib on the right of the final gully and solo up some 5.6 slab, with no protection. Once above this water worn slab headwall, continue to the base of the upper south wall and start just left of a twisted juniper below black varnish and a decent 5.8 trad crack that curves right over an arch.
Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9, 7 Pitches, on the upper southern face of Windy Peak, Windy Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, December, 2007

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MoapaPk

MoapaPk - Dec 27, 2007 11:04 pm - Voted 10/10

slabs

I think our normal "non-technical" descent route is a traverse across these slabs. I've always found it a creepy route; it's not the normal Windy descent route. There is one line across the slabs with 1/2"-deep exfoliation pockets. This route isn't at all necessary, but some people hate brush and talus so much, they go to extremes.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Dec 28, 2007 11:03 am - Hasn't voted

Re: slabs

we just threw our shoes on and went straight up the slabs...the traverse you mention is to the east of this photo, much better angled for descent...to the west is a gully without any slabs..cheers

MoapaPk

MoapaPk - Dec 28, 2007 1:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: slabs

we went all along the base of the cliffs; a guy with us (one time) was pointing out the start of each rock-climbing route. I've been down the gully as well. The slabs do get a lot steeper quickly to the N, past the angle of comfort for normal boots. Here are some non-tech routes.

You could slide a long way on those slabs, if you broke loose!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Dec 28, 2007 2:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: slabs

funny...I was with a dude that had already done Jubliant Song...but forgot the scramble up there I guess...I told him it looked like it went left no worries, but he just put his shoes on and started climbing the most difficult section of the waterworn slab straight on....I have done quite a bit of solo slabs, so I really was not phased much...of course on descent that gully went just fine, not that much brush...cheers

tanya

tanya - Dec 29, 2007 4:27 pm - Voted 10/10

You keep so busy!

I am impressed. :)

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Dec 29, 2007 7:43 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: You keep so busy!

Thanks Tanya, will have to hook up with you and Bo some time during the new year...heading back to Red Rocks this week for a weeks worth of routes....we should schedule a get together in Snow Canyon with Courtney and company sometime...cheers

tanya

tanya - Dec 29, 2007 7:55 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: You keep so busy!

I would like that. We are going with Coutney in the morning if you want to join us... somewhere in Zion. Don't know where yet... but he likes to start EARLY! ;)

Remember I am not a climber! --- But have done easy stuff with Bo like North Guardian Angel.

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