View of the hotlam-bolam route from the northgate trailhead. Line shows our ascent route, but due to poor beta available I'm not sure if this is the route proper or just a variation that worked for us. Red line starts at around 11,000 feet, detours around the two bergschrunds/crevasses, and ascends the first snow gully. Blue line ascends the second gully, which drops climber's right towards the Bolam glacier (the gully way right of the red line is the same gully). Green line ascends the third gully below the shark's tooth (prominent peak just right of where the green line ends). From here we traversed climber's right and uphill to the summit saddle.


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rhyang - Jun 18, 2007 6:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Good job !

The flattish area where the red line ends is called 'the Step', around 13000'. I think your blue line traverses over to a variation called the Bolam Gully (which I haven't been on), above the Bolam Glacier.

The usual route ascends class 2 rock from the Step near some prominent towers called the Rabbit Ears, to the backside of the summit plateau.


AriehDavid - Nov 15, 2011 9:40 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Good job !

hey Rhyang,

Just to clarify, the Bolam Gully also ends at the step. The upper traverse can and will occur in a variety of places depending on snow conditions if I'm not mistaken, but I know you've been up there a fair amount too.


MtnGuide - May 31, 2009 11:21 pm - Hasn't voted

Left route Hotlum Ridge

So I guess that left shoulder route that goes up along the edge of the fogbank, above the cliff into the stadium of the Hotlum Headwall must be the Hotlum-Wintun Route.

We were headed up there from high camp when that fog bank blew in at 60 mph all night. Collapsed camp and no sleep turned us back for lack of time to rest first.

This photo confirms my concerns about pushing through the fog -- no doubt a whiteout up high, just as you are getting tired from the steeps. What a surprise to stumble into that.

Any further clarification on this deduction would be helpful for the next time. Thanks.

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