shamusonme - Sep 4, 2019 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2019
First Mountaineering Experience
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge. Very fun, very difficult. Lots of snow on the glacier, ridges were melted out, but had a great time and a successful summit.
rossrleone - Dec 12, 2016 9:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2016
Traverse!
Climbed from the north side parking lot to the southside parking lot in 11 hours. north was fun south was a mess. not the most fun way to do it but a physical challenge for sure
adventurestreet - Mar 1, 2016 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2013
Late Season Climb
packed skis up the trail way to far for mediocre snow. great views on a calm day.
CallMeBrown - Feb 14, 2016 8:22 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2011
Great climbing conditions
Climbed with Morgan. Made Marine Camp the day before and found running water and great dry camp sites. The last bit up the Marine Camp was a real slog! Left for summit at 330a. Made it past Rabbit Ears by 7a and chose to go straight up from here, climbing mostly 2nd and 3rd class rock right to the false summit. We crossed the saddle to the main summit and watched the hordes of people come up from the Avalanche Gulch side. We downclimbed route and made it back to the car by 2p.
LJBeck - Sep 30, 2013 2:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013
First climb in California
Climbed the Hotlum-Bolam route with SMGs. Awesome weather for summit day.
Fletch - Nov 30, 2012 5:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
ear popping
glissade. big day.
scgrant - Aug 27, 2012 8:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
Great conditions all the way up. First time climbing Mount Shasta, really enjoyed this route to the top.
Cambot - Aug 20, 2012 8:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012
First 14er
Waited out thunderstorms at North Gate one night, then hiked up to Marine Camp and made the summit the next morning. Good amount of sun cupping, but otherwise good conditions and no one else on the mountain. Very fun!
lzpup - Aug 15, 2012 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
Hotlum-Bolam ridg
Great Route , perfect snow conditions. Got a late start due to wind and hit turn around time about 800 ft shy. Loved the route and ready to go back to finish up. Great time of year for the route in my opinion. Camped at the high camp on the ridge, fantastic!
countrykyle - Aug 7, 2012 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2010
Great Climb!
1st 14er. Climbed with my guide buddy. Perfect weather... clear sky, no wind.
Mpritchard - Jun 7, 2012 11:18 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2012
H-B Rdge
Had to hold off going up Fri nite because of weather, so came to the North Gate TH with snow in the parking lot. Spent the nite at 9400, because too much fog prevented further ascent. Summited on Suday. Besides 4 to 6 inches of fresh snow to slog through, conditions were perfect. Saw about 12 other climbers, some of them were skiiers. The summit was very busy with Memorial Day Ave Gulch Climbers. Route was very steep, but besides a layer of fresh snow, conditions were good all the way up. No ice!!
Think this is still skiable? Just wondering how much sun cupping and runneling you saw on the route, and how far down the snow still comes as of Jul. 30th
cdog - Aug 1, 2011 12:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011
summer '11 fun
had a nice climb up the H-B Ridge route with my friend Tim. There were a couple other groups on the route this day, including an organized class. Camped at 10,000' in a dry site with flowing water. Pretty fun route and different experience on Mt Shasta. Did see a bowling ball sized rock whiz down "the ramp", but otherwise no rockfall observed.
mrchad9 - Jun 27, 2011 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
Scenic route
Solo trip. Was able to camp on dry ground with running water at 9500 feet. Met a few familiar SPers along the way. Great view of the mountain from throughout this route.
Have climbed and descended this route a number of times. Great fun !
Shane Rathbun - Dec 6, 2010 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010
Sucess
Climbed with Mark Strahan over the course of 2-days, slept at around 10,800 on the ridge. We were the only two on the north side. Great conditions, small wind slabs on the upper mountain. We accidentally took the the wrong chute directly to the right of the Headwall which was a bit mixy but ended up traversing west over the to the Rabbit's Ears and on to the Bolam then up to the plateau at the Sulphur Springs.
Peak Freak - Aug 17, 2009 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
Great climb with MountaingirlBC. We were the only two on the north side of the mountain, and didn't see anyone else while on the summit either. Conditions were much better than expected with only one small "yucky" section early on. Loved our little variation to the summit which came out at a bivy site a short easy walk away from the true summit.
MountaingirlBC - Aug 8, 2009 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2009
Agreed! Fun route!
Headed up with no real expectation of summitting given the conditions reports we'd been able to dig up. The words "ice bouldering" had been mentioned and everything we had heard/read lead us to believe that the route was 'VERY VERY' icy. Were pleasantly surprised to only encounter one yucky section fairly early on. We kept expecting to run into an impenetrable wall of ice but before we knew it, we couldn't go up any more :) Did a fun little variation with some 4th class rock to gain the ridge. Descended the Bolum glacier which as big open crevasses that are difficult to see from above. Excellent day out!
Darren9 - Jun 8, 2009 2:25 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2007
Fun route
One partner and I came in from North Gate and camped at the last line of rocks directly below the route at around 10K. There was a small pool of water in camp. We ascended the route as described with one variation veering left to climb the rocks / snow between the Hotlum right hand ice gully and the route itself. We roped up on this for about a pitch and topped out at the Cats Ears, then continued up the route. This route is scenic and not too difficult, with a great view of the Hotlum and Bolam glaciers. Considering this, and that most people do not come to this side of the mountain, it is in my opinion the best all around route on Shasta.
shamusonme - Sep 4, 2019 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2019
First Mountaineering ExperienceHotlum-Bolam Ridge. Very fun, very difficult. Lots of snow on the glacier, ridges were melted out, but had a great time and a successful summit.
rossrleone - Dec 12, 2016 9:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2016
Traverse!Climbed from the north side parking lot to the southside parking lot in 11 hours. north was fun south was a mess. not the most fun way to do it but a physical challenge for sure
adventurestreet - Mar 1, 2016 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2013
Late Season Climbpacked skis up the trail way to far for mediocre snow. great views on a calm day.
CallMeBrown - Feb 14, 2016 8:22 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2011
Great climbing conditionsClimbed with Morgan. Made Marine Camp the day before and found running water and great dry camp sites. The last bit up the Marine Camp was a real slog! Left for summit at 330a. Made it past Rabbit Ears by 7a and chose to go straight up from here, climbing mostly 2nd and 3rd class rock right to the false summit. We crossed the saddle to the main summit and watched the hordes of people come up from the Avalanche Gulch side. We downclimbed route and made it back to the car by 2p.
LJBeck - Sep 30, 2013 2:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013
First climb in CaliforniaClimbed the Hotlum-Bolam route with SMGs. Awesome weather for summit day.
Fletch - Nov 30, 2012 5:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
ear poppingglissade. big day.
scgrant - Aug 27, 2012 8:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
Hotlum-Bolam RidgeGreat conditions all the way up. First time climbing Mount Shasta, really enjoyed this route to the top.
Cambot - Aug 20, 2012 8:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012
First 14erWaited out thunderstorms at North Gate one night, then hiked up to Marine Camp and made the summit the next morning. Good amount of sun cupping, but otherwise good conditions and no one else on the mountain. Very fun!
lzpup - Aug 15, 2012 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
Hotlum-Bolam ridgGreat Route , perfect snow conditions. Got a late start due to wind and hit turn around time about 800 ft shy. Loved the route and ready to go back to finish up. Great time of year for the route in my opinion. Camped at the high camp on the ridge, fantastic!
countrykyle - Aug 7, 2012 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2010
Great Climb!1st 14er. Climbed with my guide buddy. Perfect weather... clear sky, no wind.
Mpritchard - Jun 7, 2012 11:18 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2012
H-B RdgeHad to hold off going up Fri nite because of weather, so came to the North Gate TH with snow in the parking lot. Spent the nite at 9400, because too much fog prevented further ascent. Summited on Suday. Besides 4 to 6 inches of fresh snow to slog through, conditions were perfect. Saw about 12 other climbers, some of them were skiiers. The summit was very busy with Memorial Day Ave Gulch Climbers. Route was very steep, but besides a layer of fresh snow, conditions were good all the way up. No ice!!
damntall - Aug 4, 2011 1:20 pm
Re: summer '11 funThink this is still skiable? Just wondering how much sun cupping and runneling you saw on the route, and how far down the snow still comes as of Jul. 30th
cdog - Aug 1, 2011 12:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011
summer '11 funhad a nice climb up the H-B Ridge route with my friend Tim. There were a couple other groups on the route this day, including an organized class. Camped at 10,000' in a dry site with flowing water. Pretty fun route and different experience on Mt Shasta. Did see a bowling ball sized rock whiz down "the ramp", but otherwise no rockfall observed.
mrchad9 - Jun 27, 2011 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
Scenic routeSolo trip. Was able to camp on dry ground with running water at 9500 feet. Met a few familiar SPers along the way. Great view of the mountain from throughout this route.
Gumbie - Mar 12, 2011 2:23 pm
Hotlum-BolamSeveral times
rhyang - Dec 20, 2010 11:30 am
2005-2009Have climbed and descended this route a number of times. Great fun !
Shane Rathbun - Dec 6, 2010 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010
SucessClimbed with Mark Strahan over the course of 2-days, slept at around 10,800 on the ridge. We were the only two on the north side. Great conditions, small wind slabs on the upper mountain. We accidentally took the the wrong chute directly to the right of the Headwall which was a bit mixy but ended up traversing west over the to the Rabbit's Ears and on to the Bolam then up to the plateau at the Sulphur Springs.
Peak Freak - Aug 17, 2009 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009
Hotlum-Bolam RidgeGreat climb with MountaingirlBC. We were the only two on the north side of the mountain, and didn't see anyone else while on the summit either. Conditions were much better than expected with only one small "yucky" section early on. Loved our little variation to the summit which came out at a bivy site a short easy walk away from the true summit.
MountaingirlBC - Aug 8, 2009 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2009
Agreed! Fun route!Headed up with no real expectation of summitting given the conditions reports we'd been able to dig up. The words "ice bouldering" had been mentioned and everything we had heard/read lead us to believe that the route was 'VERY VERY' icy. Were pleasantly surprised to only encounter one yucky section fairly early on. We kept expecting to run into an impenetrable wall of ice but before we knew it, we couldn't go up any more :) Did a fun little variation with some 4th class rock to gain the ridge. Descended the Bolum glacier which as big open crevasses that are difficult to see from above. Excellent day out!
Darren9 - Jun 8, 2009 2:25 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2007
Fun routeOne partner and I came in from North Gate and camped at the last line of rocks directly below the route at around 10K. There was a small pool of water in camp. We ascended the route as described with one variation veering left to climb the rocks / snow between the Hotlum right hand ice gully and the route itself. We roped up on this for about a pitch and topped out at the Cats Ears, then continued up the route. This route is scenic and not too difficult, with a great view of the Hotlum and Bolam glaciers. Considering this, and that most people do not come to this side of the mountain, it is in my opinion the best all around route on Shasta.