Climbed this route with two novice friends. They now both love climbing and have pursued it in their own lives. One had never even been backpacking before. I would recommend this route for the more adventurous, but in reality, it is not any more technically demanding than Av Gulch. It is only harder for 3 reasons: 1)Because of the fact that in some places the consequences of a fall could end up in a crevasse. 2) Because the snow can be quite hard an compact ice. 3) Since it is not in an enclosed valley but a ridge it has the psychological factor of feeling more exposed.
Thoroughly enjoyed this gem!
Started at the lower camp, approx. 9300 ft. Nice spot with running water. A few small crevasses to cross and we had to avoid some icy sections on the glacier. Above the ramp, went right at rabbit ears and climbed maybe 300 ft of talus which was not so fun. Went Memorial Day weekend, about 30 cars at North Gate, but EVERYONE climbed Sunday and turned back due to weather. We climbed on Monday, saw absolutely no one on the north side routes, and returned to find only one other car in the parking lot. Silly people need to plan on more than one summit day possibility.
Originally planned to climb the Whitney glacier route. Stayed at Marine Camp on 5/18/07. Awoke at 3 AM to very windy conditions. Decided wait until 5 AM to try the Bolam glacier. Still too windy at 5 AM, so we decided to sleep. Awoke at 9 AM to perfect windless and cold conditions. Decided to go up light and fast on the Ridge. Observed no fresh rockfall evidence. We had perfect snow conditions up and down, with the exception of icy conditions on the North-West traverse above 13,500'. Would not recommend this as a plan-of-action, but the conditions made it perfect for us.
Stop at around 13000 feet in this 1-day ascent, still tired after my 1-day ascent of Avalanche Gulch 2 days before