Lots of people on the mountain, but still before the days of the Base Camp Refugio. My first views of the Cordillera Huayhuash from the summit!
I spent a total of 7 days on this expedition. I climbed solo. The coca tea sure tasted good when I got back to the high camp after the summit.
My friend Pau and I climbed north summit of huascaran 6655 m in 2004.
We liked to climb south summit, but the normal route of it, its impossible to climb since 2002 I think. The objective of the majority of expedicions is nowadays the summit north. The south summit can be climbed for Escudo route (D+), but is rarely in conditions and it's quite dangerous and heavy.
The summer 2004 few expeditions climbed north summit, and only two or three the south summit Escudo.
Both very happy with the summit because we climbed alone (with 24 and 22 years old) without guides and porters.
A great experience, I explain this history in future to my sons!!
as an 18 yo on first international climb. partner came down with PE on final summit slopes. Also, rescued Seatlle climber suffering from sever PE from saddle.
did musho-summit-musho in 24h...(light and fast on this 3800m, eh?!)
reach the summit on hard ice in 14.5h....
thanks to the austrians for the tea...
david bruder & andres zegers
This year was a very bad season, with bad weather, a lot of snow and lots of avalanches. No one reached the south summit via the normal route (at least until the 25 of July). Only two French got to the summit via the Shield Route (El Escudo) and was early in the season.
We got to Camp 1 and that night we heard lots of avalanches. The next day early in the morning we started climbing to Camp 2 but the snow conditions were not good and shortly after we decided to turn back and go down.
It was a great experience and I hope I can go back soon. Huascaran is an impressive, beautiful and huge mountain but should be well respected.
Thomas Samway and I reached the summit this day by the normal route, while Laurie Skreslet and Larry Derby also reached the summit by the western spur. A more complete account is given in the trip report "The Priest Climbs Huascaran".
We left from Camp 1 to follow the Shield Route. At about 6.500 m we joined the trail used on the normal route and only one of us three continued to the summit. We were too tired to reach the summit. Sat down and waited 3 hours for our friend to came back. With our arses freezing cold, and happy for completing the route got back to Camp 1 just before dark.
After 7 hours ascending from Gaganta we reached th top of Peru - breathless and happy.
What a huge pile of ice...
I climbed with M. Trewhellar (thanks Matt !) after a series of major accidents (ice-avalanches) in the Garganta-icefall ! Only speed helps to reduce risk on that mountain! Take care and be quick !