Via Fiechtl, 1st Sella Tower, south face

If I get around to it, I'll post a proper route page. For now, here is a summary. Via Fiechtl (also known as Fiechtl/Katzer), UIAA grade V-, is a popular route on the first Sella Tower. I've marked recommended belay points in orange. I didn't have this image yet, obviously, and had some trouble in matching the photo from the guidebook with the face in front of us, so we didn't use the best belay points for the first two pitches. The first pitch (UIAA grade III) weaves a bit right and left. The second pitch (IV) ascends a crack. The crux is on the third pitch (V-): the fairly wide crack splits in two smaller ones, with a huge block separating them. I could span the width of the block with my arms fairly easily, but couldn't squeeze hard enough to pull myself up. I don't know how I did it, but in the end I somehow managed to get up the leftmost smaller crack. The fourth pitch (IV) continues along the crack, to the bottom of a chimney. There is enough space to sit. The fifth pitch (IV) climbs the chimney, and is not visible in the marked route. I've used dots instead of dashes for that part. From the highest marked belay point there is another pitch (III), heading left, behind the little turret, to another belay on a big, flat area, all invisible from here. At that spot several routes come together, including the normal route (which is grade III for one short bit, though much easier but exposed otherwise). Climbers usually unrope there, and those that want to can hike and scramble easily to the summit. 3 Aug 2014.