Ice climbing in Leavenworth

Page Type
Trip Report
Location:
Washington, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Dec 27, 2009
Activities:
Ice Climbing
Season:
Winter
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Ice climbing in Leavenworth
Created On: Jan 4, 2010
Last Edited On: Jan 5, 2010

Day 1- Rainbow Falls

I went out to Leavenworth for some ice climbing the 2 days between Christmas and my birthday, making for a perfect holiday break! It was my first time ice climbing, due to a very generous invitation on cascadeclimbers.com by Curt (montypiton). We went up Rainbow Falls (I think) the first day, where I learned technique and placing screws. I did a lot of "bouldering" (icicling?) at the bottom while Curt and his son Michael were climbing, and I took the time to test out different tools and different swing techniques.

Rainbow FallsRainbow Falls- my first ice climb!


Ice CascadeLooking up at various ice flows.


First day ice climbingI'm new to ice climbing- just look at my crooked helmet and goofy smile!


Candlestick FallsThe Corner- We ran out of time, so I didn't get to climb it. Next time though!


Looking up at Candlestick FallsLooking up at The Corner.


Dusk in the CanyonCurt climbing Rainbow Falls as dusk approaches.


Curt Ice ClimbingA closer shot of Curt placing an ice screw.


First day on the ice!Me climbing Rainbow Falls, and having fun!


Having fun!At the bottom with Curt on belay.

Day 2- The Funnel

The next morning, we hiked up to The Funnel, a 3-pitch waterfall on Hubba Hubba Wall. The ice was more brittle and hard here, and I had to learn different techniques. I got a tool stuck on the vertical section at the bottom, and consequently fell trying to get it out. (Darn it!)

The FunnelThe Funnel- A 400-foot tall waterfall on Mt. Cashmere, and a terrific climb! This is only the first pitch- I couldn't capture the next two as well as I would have liked.


When I reached the belay, I asked Curt where to stand, and he gestured towards a slightly less sloped part of the waterfall with a thin layer of snow. I remember thinking, "Wait, what? I don't see a stance...oh." It was cool to look at the anchor, built off a resident piton, Curt's freshly-placed piton, and an ice screw. I hung the backpack with our puffy coats and some hot tea and clipped my camera in to the anchor. This was all new to me, but what a fun experience!

Ice AnchorOur ice anchor, with 3 people, a backpack, a camera, and other assorted gear hanging off it.


Curt brought Michael up and then led the second pitch, then Michael followed. A barrage of ice continued on throughout, with me looking up then consequently pressing myself against the waterfall repeatedly as chunks of ice bounced and shattered on my helmet. When it was finally my chance to climb, I undid the anchor and continued on to Curt and Michael at the top, noticing how small the front points on my G-12's were and how they barely scraped the surface of the ice, yet still gave me enough support to weight them.

Looking upwardsLooking up at the beginning of the second pitch.


The rappel tree, unfortunately, was about 20 feet above us. I led the short, unprotectable pitch (thinking there would be ice underneath, thus rendering it easy), but there was only powder snow covering rocks. I delicately continued up, and I hooked a small tree with my ice tool until I was able to climb onto the large tree, clip in, and belay Michael and Curt up. We rappelled back down, packed up our gear, and hiked down in the dark.

Ice MouthNight photography of The Funnel.


All in all, this was a fun trip and I am very eager for my second time ice climbing!

Gear Notes:
I bought a pair of Aztars from Curt! It was cool getting to test gear before buying it.

Approach Notes:
Rainbow Falls is like 3 minutes from the road, The Funnel is about 1,500 feet higher. Totally worth the walk though! (Who am I kidding- I like hiking too.)

-Mark

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Comments

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Viewing: 1-5 of 5
rpc

rpc - Jan 7, 2010 1:04 pm - Voted 10/10

nice!

never ice climbed either but would like to try so your beginners view is very cool for me to read/see. thanks for posting up.

Mark Straub

Mark Straub - Jan 7, 2010 5:57 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: nice!

Thanks! I'm sure you would enjoy it. You know, I will be leading ice in a month or two...maybe if you're interested we could meet up for a trip sometime.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jan 13, 2011 7:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Thanks for the story

Curt's a nice guy, he sold me a pair of ice tools for a very nice price. I hope to hit the ice one of these days.

Mark Straub

Mark Straub - Jan 13, 2011 11:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Thanks for the story

I was there, remember? And yeah, we just need to get out there.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jan 13, 2011 11:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Thanks for the story

Mark, that was mostly for the public to see. ;-)

Viewing: 1-5 of 5


Ice climbing in Leavenworth

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