Ice Nose

Page Type
Route
Location:
Engadinia, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Basic snow/rock climb with a short steep section
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
ZS, 2

Route Quality: 1 Votes

2945 Hits
72.08% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
No Image Available
Created On: Sep 17, 2002
Last Edited On: Sep 17, 2002

Approach


Start at the Diavolezza hut and follow the path of the regular route to the Piz Palü. After about one hour the Persgletscher is reached (nearby the Fuorcula d'Arlas). Crossing the glacier direction N brings you to a steep ice / snow field. On most days there should be a good path.


Route Description


Start the route traversing the ice field from left to right brings you at the base of the NNW-butress. Follow the rock of the butress up to a shoulder. There a first snow field starts.

Going up this snow field at the left side of the butress. Great view to the seracs at the n-face of the Piz Cambrena. This brings you at a rock step. Climb this step, UIAA grade 2, may be some difficulties if icy.

Above the step the ice nose starts. This are some pitches of moderate ice climbing up to 45°.

Finally go up the harmless snow fields up to the summit. The right summit is the highest point of the Piz Cambrena.

The route is shown by the red line in the routes overview photo.

Essential Gear


Crampons, rope, ice screws, one or two ice axes (depends on your personal possibilities), helmet.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.