A small, concentrated, group of ice and mixed climbs that features everything from WI3 to WI6 and good top-roping opportunities. Icy BC is the three pitch route on the right, level with its first pitch and last pitch are a number of other lines, several of which I have outlined below. These routes are very conditions-dependent and appear to vary wildly from year to year. A number of mixed lines and drytooling routes have also been bolted and climbed, although information on them is more scarce and potential remains for much more development of that type.
User beware: because of its short approach and general ease of access, this area is very popular with large groups who come to top-rope, primarily on the Deeping Wall, come early if you want to lead those lines.
Drive north on BC-99 from Lillooet until you reach the Crown Lake parking lot.
Walk down to the lake, through the picnic area, and across, angling to the right. The climbs are not visible until you cross the lake, but are immediately up the slope and should be obvious.
Marble Canyon ice climbing from BC-99
The first tier features the most popular climbs, and can be top-roped by walking around to the left, crampons advised. To reach the second and third tiers either climb Icy BC or continue walking past the top of the Deeping Wall, the base of the second tier will be a short scramble down, the base of the third tier will be a more intensive scramble up and around below a large, overhanging cliff, a short fixed line offers some assistance.
All pitches can have a substantial amount of flowing water on/in/amongst the ice.
Pitch 1 (WI3) - farthest right line at the lower tier, a two step climb with an optional stopping/resting place in the middle.
Pitch 2 (WI4) - short-ish step, can be walked around to the left if not fully formed, doing this requires the use of a fixed rope and WI2 downclimbing
Pitch 3 (WI4/5) - can be climbed either to the right or to the left of the water flow, depending on conditions.
Deeping Wall (WI4-5 multiple lines) short, broad, and steep, can be top-roped by walking around on the left.
Deeping Wall in very fat conditions
Body Shop (WI5-6) - often detached pillar to the right of the 3rd pitch of Icy BC, depending on conditions it may require mixed climbing to reach. Bolt anchor just above the ice, plus a tree to rest at (bail from) before the final steep section.
Body Shop in WI5 shape
A couple bolted lines, at least 3, can also be found to the left of the Deeping Wall, the corner goes at M8, if anyone has information on the others I would be happy to add it. Also, a mixed line called No Deductible is found between The Deeping Wall and the first pitch of Icy BC, apparently it has bolts up the first half to where the ice begins, although when I saw it the climb was completely covered by ice.
No Deductible with ice covering all bolts
When to Climb
Conditions can vary greatly, but in general calendar winter seems to be the best bet, recent conditions reports from any of the websites below are the only way to be sure.
External LinksLocal Weather
(be aware that Marble Canyon is about an hour drive from Lillooet)