Igor Unchained

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.9

Route Quality: 15 Votes

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Page By:
Rob
Igor Unchained
Created On: Nov 4, 2004
Last Edited On: Nov 5, 2004

Approach


From the Lookout stairs, hike around the north side of the Magician Needle and follow the trail along the north side of the ridge across and down to the notch between the Witch and Sorcerer needles. From the Witch / Sorcerer notch, scramble down the gully to the start of the large left' facing dihedral (about 400' ).

Route Description


Pitch 1~ Climb the left' facing dihedral up to the first belay. 5.9 (about 160') Bring extra 3", 3.5", and 4" cams if you want to lace it up.

Pitch 2~ Continue climbing up the corner to the second ledge. Belay there. 5.9 (150' )

Pitch 3~ Climb up the vertical crack, (which turns into a left' facing corner) to the top. 5.8 (165' ) bolted anchor. ~ There is a sloping ledge halfway up the pitch that can be used as an alternate belay.

Essential Gear


Standard Needles rack

1 set of TCU's or Aliens
1 set of cams 1" - 4"
1 set of nuts (#1 - 12)
extra 3", 3.5", 4" cams for pitch 1 (optional)

Descent


Rappel 60' from the chain anchor found at the end of the last pitch then scramble down to the north (4th class).

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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DustysDawg

DustysDawg - Jul 11, 2005 2:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

You can climb Igor in two 70M pitches. I would recommend bringing doubles of #1-2 camalots. Also a #4 cam protects the wide crack at the roof on the first pitch.

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