Šija

Page Type
Route
Location:
Slovenia, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Scrambling
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
UIAA I-III

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Bor
Šija
Created On: May 3, 2005
Last Edited On: Sep 15, 2009

Overview

Sija is mountaineer's dessert, a typical alpine ridge (UIAA I-III), a short and interesting climb (a thrilling scramble), leaving directly from the hut and heading straight up an evident ridge (the NE ridge).
It perfectly avoids the objective dangers (winter avalanches) of the N face Normal ascent.
Sija (pronounce sheeyah) means neck. This meets what we see on the primary image.

Getting There

The route starts at the Kamnik hut (Kamniska koca na Kamniskem sedlu).

Route Description

We start from the hut along the Normal ascent on Brana which we will also use as a Descent.
Not more than a minute or two along this path we simply leave it left-hand, and start walking up the evident ridge (a steepening grass covered slope) for the next 100m.
As the slope becomes rockier we stick left, close to the "edge".
A rocky barrier forces us to the right and we aim as straight up as we can, still not needing our hands. Steps in a gully-like situation (I) take us slightly to the right, and we soon emerge to the ridge (plunging view accross the upper E face).
We follow the ridge, mainly avoiding problems righthand (I-II).
A larger "gendarme" may be avoided on its outer right (loose). If we climb it, we might want to abseil (10 m, 1 peg + clean sling) into the next notch, or down climb (II+, exposed, good rock).
From the notch we continue left and along the ridge, avoiding details left and righthand (I-II).
As we arrive at the foot of a steep and tall gendarme, some mention climbing it along the evident crack (III), but let us follow the lesser ledge to the left of the problem and then delicately (III-) downclimb into a notch (exposed).
The following compact slab (the other side of the notch) is the last of all complications (II) and we walk up the rest of the ridge.

Essential Gear

Rope (30 m).
Slings.
Might as well take two/three various pegs, just for fun.

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