il Fungo

Page Type
Route
Location:
Lecco, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5°/A1 or 7°
Rock Difficulty:
5.10b (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
5

Route Quality: 6 Votes

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Page By:
il Fungo
Created On: Apr 17, 2005
Last Edited On: Apr 26, 2009

this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

il Fungo
the Guglie di Val Tesa from...
One of the finest rock route in the whole Grigne group
Guglie di Val Tesa
the most amusing among the not extreme routes

Approach

Torre-Lancia-Campaniletto the...
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Along the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till you see this view :

Now go on to the next saddle than follow a small descending path on the left and, passing under the Campaniletto, reach the channel between Torre and Lancia. (1 hour from Rif. Porta)

Here the climbing starts



South edge - (Spigolo del Fungo) - Route Description

Fungo - S edge - schematic...
on the S edge of the Fungo
Climb the channel (4°) till the "forcella" (small saddle) - ~ 20m
cross it and go down along the channel (2°) till the starting point of the "spigolo" (edge)

First 2 pitches are the most difficult
  • Directly along a short wall to get the dihedral .(5°)
  • Along the dihedral .(5°/A1/6° or 7°)
  • Straight along a short wall (5°/A1 or 7°, 2 nails) and on till the yellow ending section (4°/3°) - comfortable ledge
  • Straight along the fantastic and extremely exposed edge till the summit (4°+)
  • crossing from the Fungo to...
    Coming down :

  • a 15m rappel in the empty to N (starting is very delicate) let you get the thin ridge between the Fungo and the Lancia.
    Here there are 2 different possibilities :
  • along the "normal route" that means climbing down on not difficult (2°) rocks till the channel between Lancia and Torre,
    climb on (easy) to the little saddle and with one rappel get the path,

    or, better but NOT easy !!
  • Follow the ridge (cresta Accademici) till the summit of the Lancia (4°/4°+)
    From its summit 3 rappels till the saddle between Campaniletto and Torre and to the path.
  • ITALIC TEXT HERE

    Essential Gear

    Rope - 4 carabiniers - no fear of empty !!

    Difficulty table

    UIAAFrenchUSA
    F2
    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b







    il Fungo

    Route
    10 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

    Geography

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    Parents

    GrigneRoutes