il Fungo

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.92030°N / 9.38833°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5°/A1 or 7°
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 5
Sign the Climber's Log

this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.


il Fungo
the Guglie di Val Tesa from...
One of the finest rock route in the whole Grigne group
Guglie di Val Tesa
the most amusing among the not extreme routes


Torre-Lancia-Campaniletto the...
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Along the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till you see this view :

Now go on to the next saddle than follow a small descending path on the left and, passing under the Campaniletto, reach the channel between Torre and Lancia. (1 hour from Rif. Porta)

Here the climbing starts

South edge - (Spigolo del Fungo) - Route Description

Fungo - S edge - schematic...
on the S edge of the Fungo
Climb the channel (4°) till the "forcella" (small saddle) - ~ 20m
cross it and go down along the channel (2°) till the starting point of the "spigolo" (edge)

First 2 pitches are the most difficult
  • Directly along a short wall to get the dihedral .(5°)
  • Along the dihedral .(5°/A1/6° or 7°)
  • Straight along a short wall (5°/A1 or 7°, 2 nails) and on till the yellow ending section (4°/3°) - comfortable ledge
  • Straight along the fantastic and extremely exposed edge till the summit (4°+)
  • crossing from the Fungo to...
    Coming down :

  • a 15m rappel in the empty to N (starting is very delicate) let you get the thin ridge between the Fungo and the Lancia.
    Here there are 2 different possibilities :
  • along the "normal route" that means climbing down on not difficult (2°) rocks till the channel between Lancia and Torre,
    climb on (easy) to the little saddle and with one rappel get the path,

    or, better but NOT easy !!
  • Follow the ridge (cresta Accademici) till the summit of the Lancia (4°/4°+)
    From its summit 3 rappels till the saddle between Campaniletto and Torre and to the path.

    Essential Gear

    Rope - 4 carabiniers - no fear of empty !!

    Difficulty table

    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b



    Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.