Illampu Climber's Log

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Alberto Rampini

Alberto Rampini - Nov 16, 2011 5:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 1986

Magnificent Illampu   Sucess!

A magnificent mountain!


bighornmonkey - Aug 29, 2011 11:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011

As part of a twofer  Sucess!

Another 6000m twofer.

day 1: leave Sorata and camp at Laguna Chillata
day 2: Get to ¨just below¨ Laguna Glacier
day 3: Summit push ANCOHUMA...steep, AD rating
day 4: traverse to Aquas Calientes (trailhead for Illampu)
day 5: move to Illampu high camp
day 6: Summit push ILLAMPU...D rating. Perfect weather!
Day 7: Walk down to Sorata...need a shower!

Simul-climbed the headwall...and downclimbed it on the way down. We were lucky to hit the route on a perfect weather day.


rgg - Oct 8, 2010 9:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009

Normal route  Sucess!

It was a beautiful day for it. No wind at all, lots of sunshine. We climbed the left hand side of the ice face, because we had heard that there was a big bergschrund on the other side.

The upper ridge was a bit easier than I thought it would be. Perhaps that's because I was on an emotional high after climbing the steep ice face. While at some places the ridge was steep too, it was easier because it wasn't the knife-edge that I somehow expected it to be.

Up to this day, this is my favorite climb!

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