A magnificent mountain!
Another 6000m twofer.
day 1: leave Sorata and camp at Laguna Chillata
day 2: Get to ¨just below¨ Laguna Glacier
day 3: Summit push ANCOHUMA...steep, AD rating
day 4: traverse to Aquas Calientes (trailhead for Illampu)
day 5: move to Illampu high camp
day 6: Summit push ILLAMPU...D rating. Perfect weather!
Day 7: Walk down to Sorata...need a shower!
Simul-climbed the headwall...and downclimbed it on the way down. We were lucky to hit the route on a perfect weather day.
It was a beautiful day for it. No wind at all, lots of sunshine. We climbed the left hand side of the ice face, because we had heard that there was a big bergschrund on the other side.
The upper ridge was a bit easier than I thought it would be. Perhaps that's because I was on an emotional high after climbing the steep ice face. While at some places the ridge was steep too, it was easier because it wasn't the knife-edge that I somehow expected it to be.
Up to this day, this is my favorite climb!