Illimani Climber's Log

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LS

LS - Aug 18, 2011 11:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011

Theft in High Camp

Climbed together with SP'er nbaisburd, but a thief stole our ice axes in high camp, so we even couldn't start the climb. See trip report, GPS track and photos at my blog Distantpeak

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Jul 30, 2011 5:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2011

normal route  Sucess!

I climbed the normal route with BERSPECHTE. Nice climb , good conditions, quite cold and windy upthere.

Be extremly careful, a lot of thieves happen there, esepcially when coming bac and be tired, DO NOT LEAVE anything unattended outside your tents, our group suffered thefts of values. Dangeer at CB and even Nido de condores.

Beautiful peak.

Bruno BASCHUNG

rgg

rgg - Oct 12, 2010 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Normal route  Sucess!

A little windy at high camp. Around 3 am we headed out and it turned into a beautiful day.

oliverkalt

oliverkalt - Aug 8, 2010 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010

normal route  Sucess!

Beautiful day with not much wind. we reached the summit at about 6:50 just ~30min after sunrise. Descending back to the road the same day was tough. Nido camp is one of the most dramatic campsites I have ever seen.

astrobassman

astrobassman - Jun 19, 2010 3:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2010

Highlight of the Trip  Sucess!

A beautiful mountain and a great route made this the highlight of the trip for me. The sunrise over the jungles below to the east was incredible. Illimani has been the main mountain I have wanted to climb for over a year, and I´m extremely satisfied to finally have climbed it.

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - May 12, 2010 1:08 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed from Nido with my guide, Eduardo Mamani. Good conditions and a little cold as expected, but not much wind. 4 hours from Nido to the summit. We descended all the way to the car afterwards (tough day!). We had the entire mountain to ourselves!

Gido

Gido - Sep 20, 2009 8:52 am

Snowstorm

After reaching Nido de Condores weather turned against us. A nightly snowstorm resulted in avalanche prone slopes. Tricky descent down the ridge.

punchline

punchline - Mar 13, 2009 7:23 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Great Views  Sucess!

After our guide ran over a puppy in La Paz we weren't sure if the gods would smile on us ... they did!

johnmountaineering

johnmountaineering - Jan 29, 2009 8:54 am Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2009

SUMMIT!!!  Sucess!

We climbed the normal route and summited at 8:00 am. It was my second time in Bolivia and hired Bolivian Journeys once again. The did a great job, thanks to Eulogio Tarqui (our guide). www.bolivianjourneys.org (they`re the best no doubt...)

Herb

Herb - Aug 11, 2008 4:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

Normal route (Pico Sur)  Sucess!

Climbed the normal route to Pico Sur via the High camp "Nido de Condores".
My highest summit so far (July 2008). Good conditions and great views. When we arrived at the summit, we had it mostly for ourselves. That's the nice thing about Illimani: very few people. We only met a small spanish group before the summit & a small italian group joined us later on the summit. Again - as on Huayna Potosi - it was real fun and very instructive to climb with our guide, Bernardo Guarachi (the first Bolivian climber on Mt. Everest in 1998, there even exists a stamp with his portrait in Bolivia!). To climb such a summit is really rewarding and I can't wait to return to the Andes.

DrewB

DrewB - Apr 13, 2008 12:26 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002

Great Mountain!  Sucess!

Summited in a white out. luckily it cleared a little on the decent making it seem sureal. I'd climb it again in a minute if i had the chance.

Kenneth.alone - Dec 2, 2007 3:42 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2006

One of the better days of my life.  Sucess!

Absolutely, A gorgeous day! My friends and I stood and ate and drank here on this summit! Alone!

Jessica L - Nov 25, 2007 8:36 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

I have never experienced such strong winds (even in Chicago). It was very cold and the blowing snow gave me a nice facial. Otherwise, a very nice climb to my personal high.

MtnMagic

MtnMagic - Oct 12, 2007 3:19 pm

Route: Normal route  Sucess!

Great views from this wonderful peak. We were the first in approximately two weeks to summit and had to slog through 20 cm of fresh snow to get to the top. Hard work at that altitude! Definitely worth the work though.

cristakhe

cristakhe - Oct 11, 2007 6:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007

normal route  Sucess!

Nice route with good snow and ice. I like more Illimani Peak then other peaks in Bolivia because here are less people.

tatraman

tatraman - Sep 25, 2007 7:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006

summited and skied down  Sucess!

Perfect views from the whole route. we climbed the normal route and skied t down. spectacular climb and skiing to as low as 5100m. good snow conditions (though some places very icy). breathtaking mountain with a very strong atmosphere.

Thomas Gurviez

Thomas Gurviez - Sep 21, 2007 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2007

normal route of Pico Sur  Sucess!

Ascent in 3 days, thunderstorm during the night in the last camp at 5500 m
Great sunny but cold weather for the summit day, 100 m of very deep snow (about 1 meter) at about 5700 m, which made this part exhausting
The steep part at 6200 m was in icy conditions, ice screws necessary
Amazing views from the top to the Amazonia, Huayna Potosi and rest of Cordillera Real, altiplano up to the Sajama and Pomerape volcanoes, and to the ice-flutes and huge cornices of the Pico Central of Illimani

Grizz42

Grizz42 - Jul 2, 2007 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2007

Route Climbed: Normal

A great climb. A cold climb until we hit the ridge, but then the wind picked up on the summit. It's now the highest I've ever been!

mbollino

mbollino - Feb 16, 2007 4:29 pm Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2004

Normal Route  Sucess!

Beautiful and surprisingly cold climb. The entire climb was in the shade until we hit the summit ridge a hundred meters below the summit. After warming ourselves on coco tea, we descended. We were there early in the season (maybe first up of the year) and had the mountain to ourselves which made for a great high mountain atmosphere.

phydeux

phydeux - Oct 7, 2006 4:52 pm

Very Enjoyable Climbing

Did it with a guide service. Second favorite climb I've ever done after Aconcagua (since I/we arranged Aconcagua ourselves). Nice moderate technical climbing on the glacier, followed by that great walk to the summit at dawn. But geez, how can it be soooo cold that close to the equator!

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